Preparing for the PAW (Post Apocalyptic World)

Having fought off midwest floods, I can tell you that a thousand sandbags isnt all that much.

That's true, and honestly I would probably want about 2500 on hand for fortifying a home. However, remember that fortifying a bug in location with cover takes a lot fewer sandbags than holding off a flood.
 
The Swiss Army Knife of First Aid

This stuff I really nice to have when you need something that will kill microbes.
I've been using this stuff for around 10 years and find it very good at what it does.
This stuff could save your life. I currently keep at least one 4oz. bottle in my BOB.



Water Treatment Chart​
Amount of Water Filtered Water Water with Ice Tap Water Untreated Water
One glass* 1-3 drops 2-4 drops 3-5 drops 5-10 drops
One pint* 2-5 drops 4-8 drops 5-10 drops 10-15 drops
One quart† 5-10 drops 10-15 drops 10-20 drops 15-25 drops
One gallon† 10-20 drops 15-30 drops 20-40 drops 25-50 drops
*Allow treated water to stand for at least 10 minutes.
†Let stand for a minimum of 30 minutes.

Other Uses


More Uses

Still More Uses

Information about GSE
 
That's true, and honestly I would probably want about 2500 on hand for fortifying a home. However, remember that fortifying a bug in location with cover takes a lot fewer sandbags than holding off a flood.

Im actually amazed at how little sand will stop a high velocity projectile. Handgun rounds actually penetrate better than any rifle round tested. (although Im sure .50 bmg would be a different story).

http://http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/bot7.htm
 
Glad to see a survival thread in place.

It does have something to do with bearing arms. Preparedness and self-reliance is a part of resistance to tyranny. Food and money are weapons and far worse than bombs or guns.

They can try to shoot us all or use guns to make us submit, but hunger is so much easier for the enemy.


But...

Do not confuse survivalism with resistance. Survivalists only stay in place long enough for whatever monster in the PAW (like a new Hitler or Stalin) to make a project of. Real results come from the militia that does not intend to run off and hide until some "tactical team" finds them and teaches a short lesson in how any position becomes indefensable over time.

Stay alive, but don't stay out. Liberty needs able men who will fight for it.
 
Don't forget your iPod and solar charger. God forbid you go a night without watching "Lazy Scranton".
 
Glad to see a survival thread in place.

It does have something to do with bearing arms. Preparedness and self-reliance is a part of resistance to tyranny. Food and money are weapons and far worse than bombs or guns.

They can try to shoot us all or use guns to make us submit, but hunger is so much easier for the enemy.


But...

Do not confuse survivalism with resistance. Survivalists only stay in place long enough for whatever monster in the PAW (like a new Hitler or Stalin) to make a project of. Real results come from the militia that does not intend to run off and hide until some "tactical team" finds them and teaches a short lesson in how any position becomes indefensable over time.

Stay alive, but don't stay out. Liberty needs able men who will fight for it.

http://ncmilitia.org/
http://www.ncmilitia.org/phpBB2/index.php
http://www.ronpaulforums.com/showthread.php?t=131135

I'll be at Dixie Gun and Knife on Saturday May 3rd wearing a MARPAT boonie and URBAN MARPAT utilities until 1300 when I will be relocating to Cup a Joes on Hillsborough St.
 
Gunny,
There's a rumor that there may be some problems in the Pacific NW the first week of May. In an emergency I've got preps but am worried about very intelligent and well trained people storming my house for food and such...
If you could point me to one good tactical resource on defending a house what would it be? BTW, thanks for the advice thus far.
 
Gunny,
There's a rumor that there may be some problems in the Pacific NW the first week of May. In an emergency I've got preps but am worried about very intelligent and well trained people storming my house for food and such...
If you could point me to one good tactical resource on defending a house what would it be? BTW, thanks for the advice thus far.

Well, first and foremost, who all knows you have food? If nobody knows you have food, then you are in a lot less danger than if everybody knows you have food.

Secondly, if people are coming to get supplies, then they are a lot less likely to storm your house if it's perceived as a hard target. Simple things, like exterior lights that point out without illuminating the house itself will help to create that impression. Also, some kind of early warning system helps to create an impression of a hard target.

My early warning system is a chain link fence that completely surrounds the house and contains a dog.

However, you can also (if you have gobs of money) come up with solar powered break-beam lasers to detect movement -- just be prepared for a lot of false alarms being outdoors. If you have the money to do this, then you can also set up an automation trigger for lighting. Trip the beam and the outdoor lights come on, followed by a couple interior lights in strategic locations. Even if you never wake up, an attacker will probably look for easier pickings at that point.

One thing I used to do as a kid a lot was to take a bag of M-80's, a bunch of model rocket igniters, a bunch of 9v batteries, clothespins, some aluminum foil, some wire, some cardboard, fishing line, and 90mph tape and make trip wires. Nothing that would harm anybody, but something that would simply set off an M-80 whenever the tripwire was pulled out of the clothespin.

An easier solution is to take all your leftover cans from canned foods, wash them out, paint them to match your surroundings, and hang them from trees on line (or on fences) so that they make a racket whenever a line is stepped on or kicked, or a fence is being climbed.

If your early warning system goes off and you look outside to see 2-3 shadowy figures on approach, a simple warning shot will almost certainly send them looking for easier pickings. If they continue coming after that, then they are specifically targeting YOU and they probably want something a little more involved than food stores.

You have to put yourself in their shoes. If you think a random house may have food, and you are wiling to break in and take it, then you will be looking for "the lowest hanging fruit" instead of the one that's neigh on impossible to get. And then, by the time YOU become the 'lowest hanging fruit,' hopefully you will have gotten plenty of warning from your neighbors that the bad guys are in the area.

At that point, then, you can start horse-trading. ESPECIALLY if you have enough food stored up. Go up to a fairly competent (but hungry) neighbor and say, "I'll give you a pound of rice a week and a can of meat a month if you help me keep watch." (but only if you can trust him enough to not gather 15 people and storm your house himself!)

Honestly, I could go on for days here. But back to the original question -- where to get tactical training. That's actually a tough one. Your best bet will be to network with others of a like mind and just 'come up together' with training. Go to a gun show, the flea market, and army surplus stores and get Army and Marine Corps field manuals, and learn as much book knowledge as you can absorb, and then get with fellow survivalists and practice. Join an airsoft league (preferably) or if not a paintball league. Airsoft tends to be more 'tactical' and paintball tends to be more 'sport.'

You can hook up with like-minded folk at:

http://www.shtfmilitia.com/index.php
and
http://zombiehunters.org/forum/index.php

to start with.

I'll get more into weapons training in the "weapons" installment of this thread, following the food storage post that I'll be posting in the next 24 hours.
 
Last edited:
One thing I used to do as a kid a lot was to take a bag of M-80's, a bunch of model rocket igniters, a bunch of 9v batteries, clothespins, some aluminum foil, some wire, some cardboard, fishing line, and 90mph tape and make trip wires. Nothing that would harm anybody, but something that would simply set off an M-80 whenever the tripwire was pulled out of the clothespin.

Ahhh.... You're one-of-a-kind Gunny. Thanks for the post, it's always good to know how to be best prepared (and be prepared...).
 
One thing I used to do as a kid a lot was to take a bag of M-80's, a bunch of model rocket igniters, a bunch of 9v batteries, clothespins, some aluminum foil, some wire, some cardboard, fishing line, and 90mph tape and make trip wires. Nothing that would harm anybody, but something that would simply set off an M-80 whenever the tripwire was pulled out of the clothespin.

You, sir, are the MacGyver of RPF. *bows down*
 
You, sir, are the MacGyver of RPF. *bows down*

ROFL - not quite! Those are actually amazingly simple to make. I didn't have any sort of plan, I made the design up myself, but that's more of a testament to how ridiculously simple they are to make than any sort of design prowess on my part.

If you have ever seen an M-80, it's a cylinder shaped fire cracker with a loose fuze sticking out of the side. A model rocket igniter, is little more than a match head with 2 wires sticking out of it. Pull the fuze, insert the igniter, tape down, and any 9v DC current will result in an instantaneous M-80 BANG!

11wekhf.jpg


A note if you plan on actually DOING this -- do not connect the battery until everything is in place -- AFTER the whole thing is taped up, AFTER the fishing line is attached, AFTER both ends are secured to trees, and AFTER the piece of cardboard is firmly breaking the circuit.

It helps to actually use a 9 volt battery snap on connector which you can get real cheap and re-use. You do NOT want the M-80 going off while building this thing, and CERTAINLY not while you are holding it. M-80's are a bit powerful, and can damage your hand!

So build the whole thing attaching the wires to the 9 volt battery snap on connecter, put everything including trip wire in place, and the last thing you do before leaving it is to snap the connector onto the battery.
 
Thanks for the diagram--looks like it'd be fun to put together (or earn you an honorary Darwin's Award :) )
 
It is sad how in some states, they won't let people have M80 fireworks... for that matter anything that goes bang or flies through the air is outlawed. :(

In those states, it is easier to use a popper round (blank) for a 12 gauge shot gun and a spring trigger to snap the cap. The entire device can be made out of a small piece of 3/4 inch steel pipe and some reducing couplings. Along with those, you would need a bolt and some nuts and a spring. Not all that hard to build... but then that raises the question of whether they would call that a bomb and arrest you for having the harmless noise making device.
 
Preparing for the PAW (Post Apocalyptic World)

Preparing for the PAW is neither cheap nor easy. As in all things, you can be frugal or you can be lavish. There is no one set of equipment and foodstuffs, but rather a set of basic principles to abide by in the preparation which can be addressed frugally or expensively. These principles can be laid out in segments as follows:

Bugging In/Bugging Out
Medical
Food
Weapons
Ammunition
Communications and
Misc Equipment

If the descriptions of the categories below begin to seem overwhelming, remember what I said in the first paragraph up top -- you can either do this frugally or expensively. You can set up a very very basic PAW kit which includes ALL of these categories for under $1,000; or you can go all out and drop $250,000 or more into it and still have many more things left that you can do to further prepare. The important part is recognizing the categories and addressing the various concerns in each one.

OVERVIEW OF CATEGORIES

Bugging In/Bugging Out

First and foremost, bugging in and bugging out. Depending on what kind of shyt hits what kind of fan, will determine whether you stay put, or whether you head for the hills. Sitting it out in "fortress home" is called bugging in, and heading for the hills is called bugging out. Bugging out uses supplies and equipment you have on hand at home, while the primary component of bugging out is called a "bug out bag" or BOB. Bugging out can be as simple as a regular military style ALICE pack with some food clothing and ammo, and a good set of hiking boots, or it can be as fancy as a Bug Out Vehicle (BOV) rigged out like Mad Max with supplemental fuel tanks and so on.

Medical

Medical preparedness is important. You will probably not have access to the hospital in the PAW, so a good first aid kit is imperative. Even better, a fully stocked combat corpman's kit along with some paramedic training is a very good idea.

Food

Food storage is also important. When the world goes to hell in a handbasket, you aren't likely to find goodies at your local Wal Mart. Food stores tend to fall into 3 categories -- MRE's, Canned and/or freeze dried long term food stores, and bulk commodity foodstuffs. MRE's can be had military surplus, and will store longer than 10 years if kept under 60 degrees. MRE's can be had less expensively as knock-offs and are nearly as good, but MRE's are damn expensive. One year's supply for one person can run into the $5000 range. Canned long term food stores can be had with shelf lifes from 5 years to 100 years, and tend to be less expensive, one year for one person running around $1000 to $2000. Commodity foodstuffs include rice, wheat flour, dried beans etc, and are the cheapest of the lot, one year for one person coming in at $200 to $500. Your best bet is a combination of the three. Some MRE's for the BOB/BOV and anytime you may be out of the house for an extended period of weeks or months; some canned meats and vegetables, and some commodities.

Weapons

Weapons will be very important. Do not underestimate the utility of the .22 rifle! you can get 1000 rounds of .22 LR for $20 and they don't make a whole lot of noise (which draws a lot of attention!) The .22 is perfect for hunting small game, and it is quite frankly stupid to shoot a rabbit or a squirrel with a high powered rifle. You should have a .22 and around 5000 rounds of .22 LR and if you are not squeamish about cleaning rabbits or snake, then you will never starve. A decent pistol 9mm or better to help you fight your way back to your main battle rifle, and then a rifle in 5.56, .308 or .30-06

Ammunition

Ammunition -- you should have an ammo store on hand to feed your weapons, and a bench for reloading. Brass, while it is good to have extra, is not as crucial as you can collect your own brass to reload. You must have powder, primers, and projectiles, however. Because .22 LR cannot really be reloaded, you will want a full supply on hand. Say 5000 to 10,000 rounds. Any marksmanship training you need to do in the PAW can be done with the .22, and rounds for that rifle are cheap cheap cheap. You'll want about 500 to 700 pistol rounds, plus dies for reloading, and 2,000 to 3,000 rounds for your main battle rifle, plus dies for reloading.

Communications and

Communications covers items like short wave radios, and maybe even amateur radio setups. If you plan on working together in groups in the PAW, then some handsets might be a good idea. Handsets may be a good idea just for family members. If the power goes out, don't forget that you may want the ability to recharge your handsets by solar energy, or dynamo energy. An exercise bicycle can be retrofit pretty easily to generate electricity by foot-power. The crucial aspect will be storage batteries and transformers/converters.

Misc Equipment

Miscellaneous equipment is really the catch all. A gas mask is a good idea, a tactical vest, lanterns, flashlights, maybe a generator, a kerosine heater, water purification equipment, a propane cook stove, and lots of other miscellany. This includes field kit, canteens, ammo pouches, butt packs, load bearing gear; combat kit like flack vests or bulletproof vests, trauma plates, and survival/camping gear.



Details in subsequent posts

My plan:

Start a business that sells survival gear to whackjobs who believe in the end of the world, including a card company that promises to deliver your cards to other non-believers post rapture.

Buy land and other businesses.

Take all the money I make off my new company and invest in other companies that are equally abusing the market.

Buy more property, physical and intellectual.

Use my charm, sex appeal and money to have secret affairs with married women and single women.

Buy myself a presidency or senatorial seat (after a public conversion to Protestantism)

Use my charm, sex appeal, money, and power to have open affairs with other married women and single young women.

Con the American public into funding my ridiculous lifestyle and property owning.


Renounce my religion near my deathbed, saying that I only lied about it to get elected. Self publish my memoirs, donating massive amounts of fortune to global projects, networks, and Universities. Create several trusts to promote certain ideals. Self publish my novels and notes. Freeze my sperm in holding banks across the planet, allowing access to qualified participants.

Die and leave my wealth to my numerous children, legitimate and the earlier illegitimate who come forward.

Free Market baby, love and live, and learn how to abuse it.

Be an evolutionary success.
 
there are two types of water purification to be had that can be useful and very easy to set up.

Ground Filtration.

At a river this is easiest... about 6 inches from the bank, dig a small trench. Watch the trench fill up with water that's coming through the dirt. Collect the water.

H2O2 purification.

Then take it home and add H2O2 to it (1000 ppm is fine) and shine a UV light (UVC works best, but is more dangerous. Using UVA is fine as well) on it. H2O2 doesn't last forever though. but it's dirt cheap.

Your water will be clean enough to drink. The second step is really overkill. Technically you only need to filter it through the ground to get the bacteria out.
 
there are two types of water purification to be had that can be useful and very easy to set up.

Ground Filtration.

At a river this is easiest... about 6 inches from the bank, dig a small trench. Watch the trench fill up with water that's coming through the dirt. Collect the water.

H2O2 purification.

Then take it home and add H2O2 to it (1000 ppm is fine) and shine a UV light (UVC works best, but is more dangerous. Using UVA is fine as well) on it. H2O2 doesn't last forever though. but it's dirt cheap.

Your water will be clean enough to drink. The second step is really overkill. Technically you only need to filter it through the ground to get the bacteria out.

Or just use GSE as I described in my previous post.
 
meh... i like the ground filtration. works very well. plus i don't have to carry *Anything* around to do it. and will work well after you've run out of GSE.
 
Back
Top