# Lifestyles & Discussion > Freedom Living >  The RPF Firewood Thread

## presence

*a typical "8 Cord Triaxle Load"; 8'x8'x16'*







I heat my home with wood and I'm sure many of you do as well.  Post your suggestions, tips, and tricks for gathering, chopping, storing, and burning firewood.  Here are some of my opening thoughts:




This is a "triaxle of firewood".  It represents the "tops" of trees that are too small in diameter, or of too low a quality to make lumber.  Manning up, one should be able to dice a triaxle into chuncks 18" x round in two weekends; another 32 hours should yield split firewood.    The cost of a triaxle of logs ranges from about $250 in the hillbilly sticks of the midwest, near the point of harvest, to about $1200 in suburbia.  In my area its about $600.  Loggers like cash.   If you want your wood already in rounds expect to pay almost double.  If you want it split, dry, and seasoned, expect triple.    Its hard to beat the deal on a triaxle load by pulling wood from your own land unless you're well equipped.  Commercial firewood is essentially a "waste product" of the logging industry; they make their money on the first 32 feet of the tree going up  by selling choice logs at the mill.  Whatever amongst the tops or center rot doesn't get sold as firewood sits in the forest and decays.  





This is a chainsaw.  Note that the brand name ending HL; thats the mark of a real chainsaw.  It should cost you about $500 at a dealer or $200 at a pawn shop; sans a few bar and carb replacements, it will last you the rest of your life; parts dealers are abundant.




This is a piece of $#@!, you can buy one new at Amazon for $99 or find one in "like new" condition on your neighbor's curb.




There are three ways to sharpen your saw.  With logs that have been dragged out of the woods and have a coating of dirt... it will need to happen twice per tank of 2 cycle.  I don't spin my blade unless it is crazy sharp, I turn off my saw when it descends into the log at a pace of less than 1/4" per second under its own pull.  Why suffer, huff fumes, wear out your bar, waste fuel, and work yourself dead on a dull chain?  A slow rocking action helps a saw descend... but you shouldn't have to push down to get the saw to cut.   You want to see flakes of wood, not sawdust coming out of the saw.



I ain't got time for that.







waste of $200
















Dremel plus  $9 four pack of diamond burrs:


= get 'er done 




Cordless is nice in the field.





On fuel... it should take about 2-3 gallons of 2 cycle mix to dice a triaxle of logs.   If you're using more than that refer back to sharp chain.  After dealing with fuel issues with other brands, I'm religious about my mix and use only:





with an added 1-2 oz of seafoam per gallon








Since the addition of ethanol to the national fuel supply... I don't "store" any engine.  If I want to keep it, I make sure I start it regularly... with failed results I've given up on fuel stabilizers as a means to save small 2 cycle carbs from seasonal storage.  Your results may vary... but carbs are expensive and pulling the cord every 60 days is cheap.  


One last bit on fuel... if you're cutting and the wind shifts and you find yourself breathing hot air... that's exhaust; you want to stop doing that and get yer nose up in the cool air again at your earliest.







> "People love *chopping* wood. In this activity one immediately sees results." - Albert Einstein




This is a 6lb splitting maul.    I destroy a triaxle of logs every year with one of these   Note the metal handle guard, finding a maul with a guard like this is difficult... I screw 5"x5" square, bent U shaped, piece of heavy 16g galv sheet metal on to my handle just below my maul head... it ensures your hickory handle lasts 5 years instead of 1.  I also like to coat the wood where it passes through the maul head with some kind of petroleum product... used motor oil works well to ensure longevity; lately I like the smell of diesel.    If your maul came with a cute leather sheath like the one above... throw it in the weeds. 




Please share your thoughts!



presence

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## Origanalist

I'm using gas this year, working too much to do the wood stove except occasionally. I would like to build one of these someday;  http://www.richsoil.com/rocket-stove-mass-heater.jsp

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## brandon

How do you keep your house heated when you're gone for an extended period of time?

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## oyarde

> How do you keep your house heated when you're gone for an extended period of time?


I could set the thermostat at 59 or something, so my fish does not get too cold , no frozen water.

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## oyarde

> How do you keep your house heated when you're gone for an extended period of time?


If I have to be out of town , I get one of the Grand sons to stay at my place.When they get cold they will build a fire

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## brandon

Ok so people typically have a back-up heating system other than firewood?

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## tod evans

I still have the same Homelite saw I cut wood with in the 70's..

I did put a "short" bar on it, 24", since I don't fell any more..

I've run Mac 70's for money....Those'll put the hurt on ya'!

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## tod evans

Those German saws are nice but I've not heard anything that sounds like an old Mac..

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## Natural Citizen

My dad used to just go out to the woods with his axe. Sometimes a bow saw too. He did it all with just that. I think he did eventually get a maul though because I remember learning how to split with it to where you could just do it with one swing. I remember calling it something else though. Maybe a axe hammer or something like that. Until then I always got stuck with the old "hold yer arms out" end of it and then carried it for what seemed like a long way up the holler to the wood pile. Ah, the good old days...

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## oyarde

> Ok so people typically have a back-up heating system other than firewood?


I always have and the goal is to not use it too much in the coldest months. The avg heat bill for an older home in the midwest , as example, for an entire winter may suprise some. I figure anything I do not have to spend on that is a plus .Can be used for something else, or  property taxes beginning of May instead .

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## oyarde

> Ok so people typically have a back-up heating system other than firewood?


In Philly you could burn cash or commies if you run out of wood

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## presence

On addressing the log:




You should be able to two stroke any log that is less than 18" long, has a natural crack like above, isn't a "crotch" and is less than 12" diameter.  Chop once on the far side of the log to crack it, then once again on the near side to split it.


Larger logs, and crotch wood will require peeling off the sapwood first, then splitting the heartwood second. 





When attacking the sapwood, I like to aim so that every stroke should yield a piece of burnable firewood.

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## tod evans

Ever try to split elm?

That's why the good lord invented hydraulics.

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## oyarde

> Ok so people typically have a back-up heating system other than firewood?


Stop by Sat afternoon Brandon , I have about 25 feet of a four foot diameter log I will be finishing sawing up, loading in the truck, dumping in the driveway . I will let you help

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## presence

> How do you keep your house heated when you're gone for an extended period of time?




I have a electronics-free wood boiler and hydronic baseboard that cycles on thermosiphon.  When I'm away I have small propane boiler that circulates the same system with a traditional circulator.    To heat my home for the year on propane alone would cost about $3300.  Wood costs me about $600.

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## presence

> Those German saws are nice but I've not heard anything that sounds like an old Mac..


I can make exceptions for old Macs and Jonsereds

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## klamath

Hard to beat prosaws from Stihl. I work with both Stihl and Huskavarna. I gave up on American saws years ago. Only run square filed chisel chains as nothing beats them especially when working with 4 foot in diameter Doug fir. I have spent my time on the other end of a two man buck saw and cut a lot of firewood with a Canadian fiddle.
I am heating more with electric now. It is a lot cleaner but doesn't have the comforting roar of the wood stove.

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## oyarde

> I have a electronics-free wood boiler and hydronic baseboard that cycles on thermosiphon.  When I'm away I have small propane boiler that circulates the same system with a traditional circulator.    To heat my home for the year on propane alone would cost about $3300.  Wood costs me about $600.


Yeah , propane is very high .I do not spend anything on wood, except gas , oil , time.I already have all the equipment .Probably saves me , as much as maybe $200 a month in the dead of winter.

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## oyarde

Maybe Pete will post you guys some pictures of his place.

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## JK/SEA

I get my firewood delivered. 450 bucks for 2 1/2 cords DRIED, and chopped for my Avalon woodstove. I currently have 8 plus cords total, with this total reflecting what i had 'left over' from last year. I'm ready to rock. Stove has been cleaned top to bottom.

Should be firing up the stove in early October.

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## oyarde

> I have a electronics-free wood boiler and hydronic baseboard that cycles on thermosiphon.  When I'm away I have small propane boiler that circulates the same system with a traditional circulator.    To heat my home for the year on propane alone would cost about $3300.  Wood costs me about $600.


If my other heat source was electric or propane , my savings could be as much as 4 or 500 a month in the worst months, based on where I used to live and the furnace was propane and the house had baseboard electric heat too.I used wood there too , fireplace, wood stove where I am now.

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## presence

> I'm using gas this year, working too much to do the wood stove except occasionally. I would like to build one of these someday;  http://www.richsoil.com/rocket-stove-mass-heater.jsp



My uncle just converted his 3 car garage to a rocket mass heater, ditching his Vogelzang barrel situation: 


After his first season on rocket mass he tells me he's heating on 1/4 of the firewood to heat the same space the barrel stove heated, although he does have to chop it smaller; an estwing Fireside Friend 4lb comes in handy:









> I always have and the goal is to not use it too much in the coldest months.


I agree with that notion.  For a while my only back up were some plug in 1500w electric heaters.  Cold times, hot cords.  




> I have spent my time on the other end of a two  man buck saw and cut a lot of firewood with a Canadian fiddle.
> 
> []
> 
> I am heating more with electric now. It is a lot cleaner but doesn't have the comforting roar of the wood stove.


I have a two man, hardest steel of anything I've ever owned.  


Check out a pellet stove... clean like electric... but  (relatively) cheap and roaring like a wood fire.  Lots of deals on  craigslist.  Homedepot carries pellets for $200/ton

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## heavenlyboy34

I'd just like to ask any AZ people here to stop burning $#@!ing mesquite.  It irritates my allergies. :P

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## dannno

> I'd just like to ask any AZ people here to stop burning $#@!ing mesquite.  It irritates my allergies. :P


It also burns a really good tri-tip.

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## puppetmaster

> How do you keep your house heated when you're gone for an extended period of time?


This works well for 8 plus hours.
Rocket mass heaters. Plus it burns small crap.

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## puppetmaster

> I'd just like to ask any AZ people here to stop burning $#@!ing mesquite.  It irritates my allergies. :P


Tell em to use a rocket mass heater....

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## 69360

You guys must have some big uninsulated places.

I can make it a whole Maine winter on one 275 tank of K1 which is like $1100.

I might buy a small used woodstove for the living room, I have about a 1/2 acre of trees I'd like to clear eventually so I can get a view of the small stream that runs in spring from the window, might as well burn them for heat.

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## I<3Liberty

My parents saved a lot of money by switching from oil to pellets. The pellet stove is nice because it's cleaner than wood stoves. You can dump pellets in and it'll burn all day then shut off once the room reaches a certain temp. The pellets are made from wax and sawdust gathered from furniture factories and logging mills, so it doesn't let anything go to waste.

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## tod evans

> My parents saved a lot of money by switching from oil to pellets. The pellet stove is nice because it's cleaner than wood stoves. You can dump pellets in and it'll burn all day then shut off once the room reaches a certain temp. The pellets are made from wax and sawdust gathered from furniture factories and logging mills, so it doesn't let anything go to waste.


I pay a substantial trash bill to have my sawdust hauled to the landfill, there are countless small shops and mills out here in the sticks who do the same..

Pelletizing machines are ridiculously expensive...

If more folks would start burning them the demand for sawdust would go up and maybe I could save a little money...

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## Origanalist

> My parents saved a lot of money by switching from oil to pellets. The pellet stove is nice because it's cleaner than wood stoves. You can dump pellets in and it'll burn all day then shut off once the room reaches a certain temp. The pellets are made from wax and sawdust gathered from furniture factories and logging mills, so it doesn't let anything go to waste.


Except they don't work if you lose power.

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## phill4paul

I have a friend that is clearing some land. Spent the last weekend camping and cutting and splitting. I just take my time and enjoy myself. Smoke up some ribs and shoot the guns some. The bonus is I can get away from everyone and everything electronic that connects us.

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## Origanalist

> I have a friend that is clearing some land. Spent the last weekend camping and cutting and splitting. I just take my time and enjoy myself. Smoke up some ribs and shoot the guns some. The bonus is I can get away from everyone and everything electronic that connects us.


That actually sounds really nice right now.

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## presence

> I pay a substantial trash bill to have my sawdust hauled to the landfill,


http://www.appropedia.org/Sawdust_stove


Set a 55 drum up on some cinder blocks and cut a 4" hole in the bottom.  Pack it solid w/ sawdust with a piece of 3" pvc down the center, when its packed tight, pull the pipe out and light from below w/ mapp torch.

No more sawdust.

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## tod evans

> http://www.appropedia.org/Sawdust_stove
> 
> 
> Set a 55 drum up on some cinder blocks and cut a 4" hole in the bottom.  Pack it solid w/ sawdust with a piece of 3" pvc down the center, when its packed tight, pull the pipe out and light from below w/ mapp torch.
> 
> No more sawdust.


Wood burning stove = no insurance....

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## presence

> That actually sounds really nice right now.


Stop by I'll keep ya busy.

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## Origanalist

> Stop by I'll keep ya busy.


As long as it's not drywall......

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## presence

> Except they don't work if you lose power.


Pellet stoves have low power usage; about 3 amps when the auger spins depending upon brand. 

Instead of plugging your stove into the wall, plug it into a cheap 500w inverter; Amazon ~$25

Plug the inverter into a 2 battery deep cycle bank.  ~200

Plug the batter bank into a trickle charger  ~$25



$250 = pellet stove stays on for a week after the power goes out.





> As long as it's not drywall......



I'll pull up another triaxle w/ your name on it

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## phill4paul

> That actually sounds really nice right now.


  It's great and I love this time of year. It'll take another 3 weekends to get all the firewood in. And that's milking it. Nothing better than an _excuse_ to get away from it all. I'd be there this weekend if it weren't raining. I don't like setting up a tent just for a weekend. Just a tarp and ground cloth. And the woman is happy, happy, happy to see me bringing home a load of split wood on Sunday.

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## presence



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## presence



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## presence



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## Origanalist

> It's great and I love this time of year. It'll take another 3 weekends to get all the firewood in. And that's milking it. Nothing better than an _excuse_ to get away from it all. I'd be there this weekend if it weren't raining. I don't like setting up a tent just for a weekend. Just a tarp and ground cloth. And the woman is happy, happy, happy to see me bringing home a load of split wood on Sunday.


Win, win!

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## presence



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## Anti Federalist

I approve of this thread.

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## Origanalist

> I approve of this thread.


Is there a official AF seal of approval?

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## pcosmar

Holy Spam Post Batman.

Edit,, removed.

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## pcosmar

A lot of good info,, but I use a Poulan,,18". And I don't mess with much "little" wood. Perhaps not the best,,but they are cheap and I am poor.









I heat with wood all winter,, for the last 6 years. And I would guess,, I burn about 20 cord,, but that is just a guess.
I never made a big pile. But I go through that cart full, about every day.

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## Barrex

Obvious: Chop wood while it is wet. When it is dry it is much harder to chop/split it.
Also: Wet wood burns longer (our village scientists still dont 100% agree why) so if you already heated your home use wet ones to maintain fire.
Smart planing: If you have your own forest cut down part of it and plant chestnuts, cherries, nuts, pears and other fruit trees that can grow without any special care there. Also Birch for juice and maple for pancake syrup. You will get your firewood and also source of free food. Dont plant only one chestnut (they need more than one to pollinate and bear fruit). If you do this in time you can replace your entire forest with fruit bearing trees. You will have healthy source of food, firewood and some income (if you sell fruits or lease someone else to collect fruits). If you plant cherry and nut trees (it works for others too) cut all lower branches so you get straight trunk. This will ensure that when you cut it years later you have straight trunk that you can sell. Cherry and walnut wood is expensive. If you want you can go for some exotic wood species that are really really expensive. Consider it inexpensive investment. It will give you joy to eat its fruits and watch it grow. It costs less than 5 dollars (here) to buy young walnut tree and plant it. After 20 years you can have trunk that is worth (I really dont know prices in US so this time I will not lie... you are welcome). Can someone tell me price of it over there?
When I was born my father planted a nut tree. Trunk is useless now because of tree house and swings that broke more than few branches and distorted it... It survived all that mayhem and now it is higher than 4 story building.

Do you have or use these? Hitting axe when it doesnt split a log.




> Ok so people typically have a back-up heating system other than firewood?


Back-up is for something that fails. If you have wood and a stove I dont see how your going to fail heating your home? But yea we too have portable electric heater that we didnt use in the city so we moved it on our farm.



> Wood burning stove = no insurance....


??? That is just stupid. Over here it is not like that. Most people use wood stoves and insurance companise would have to give up on large portion of their business if they did that. Could you explain that little more? Yes you could. Will you?



> 


Nah. It looks nice at first view (how it is splitting wood) but then you  realize that must make sure to cut all branches, move all  stumps(blocks???) in same area, adjust every single time for size of the  block, move it to the machine, bring it up and...bla bla bla... If it  is for personal use it is not worth it. If it is professional it is not  good enough.
I am old fashioned: Stihl chainsaw, axe and wooden mallet is all you need to provide fire wood for your home.
Discriminatory  corner: I never saw lumberjack in a gym (fitness club)...I am not a  lumberjack (gave up on that career path after watching Monty Pythons promotional video)but I also think it is stupid to pay someone to lift things and run in one place. How twisted things are. 

Does that Nordic "thing" in you 4th video works as well as axe or is it just for soft wood without knots (place where branch is going out from a log)?

P.s.
I see *pcosmar* got him self a rabbit guard to protect his wood.

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## presence

> I burn about 20 cord,, but that is just a guess.



wow.

20 cord?  or 20 face cord?


cord = 4' x 4' x 8'

face = 4' x 16inches x 8'

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## presence

> Obvious: Chop wood while it is wet. When it is dry it is much harder to chop/split it.
> Also: Wet wood burns longer (our village scientists still dont 100% agree why) so if you already heated your home use wet ones to maintain fire.


wet wood will increase creosote production in your chimney... be careful w/ that and inspect 2x month







> Do you have or use these? Hitting axe when it doesnt split a log.


I've never used anything but a 6lb maul.  Axes tend to get stuck in the wood rather than ploughing through






> ??? That is just stupid. Over here it is not like that. Most people use wood stoves and insurance companise would have to give up on large portion of their business if they did that. Could you explain that little more? Yes you could. Will you?



In the US, big insurance and big power have common interests.  So big insurance says 2x or 3x home fire insurance cost for wood stoves in some areas forcing use of "safe" electric/gas/fuel oil heat.  You can get around this by using an "outdoor wood boiler" and hydronic system.  




> Whether or not you'll pay additional premiums due to your alternative  heating depends on your insurer. Erie doesn't charge more, nor does the  nation's largest property/casualty insurer, State Farm. Allstate charges  extra. (This additional premium does not apply to built-in fireplaces.)


http://www.insure.com/home-insurance...e-heating.html





> Does that Nordic "thing" in you 4th video works as well as axe or is it just for soft wood without knots (place where branch is going out from a log)?


never used one... just thought it was a neat tube 



> P.s.
> I see *pcosmar* got him self a rabbit guard to protect his wood.


Gotta do what you gotta do when the state takes your gun rights away.

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## oyarde

> A lot of good info,, but I use a Poulan,,18". And I don't mess with much "little" wood. Perhaps not the best,,but they are cheap and I am poor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That last pic with the bunny kind of makes my morning Pete.For some reason , makes me smile.What is the propnane tank for ?

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## tod evans

> ??? That is just stupid. Over here it is not like that. Most people use wood stoves and insurance companise would have to give up on large portion of their business if they did that. Could you explain that little more? Yes you could. Will you?


I have a woodworking business on my property and one of the requirements of the insurance company is no open flames, even burning scrap (if caught) is grounds for them to invalidate the policy.

I can change companies but the difference in premiums is ridiculous, $6k year!

I inquired about outdoor boilers, in ground boilers and the carriers response was the same, no open flames..

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## pcosmar

> wow.
> 
> 20 cord?  or 20 face cord?
> 
> 
> cord = 4' x 4' x 8'
> 
> face = 4' x 16inches x 8'


Guessing 20 full cord.. give or take a bit,, depending. 

I cut and split all winter,, continuously. I start with some in the fall,, and put it in the basement,, then cycle it,,
(some thawing/drying and some burning)





I burn about a cart full everyday.. the cart gets skis after the snow flies.

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## presence

> Guessing 20 full cord.. give or take a bit,, depending. 
> 
> I cut and split all winter,, continuously. I start with some in the fall,, and put it in the basement,, then cycle it,,
> (some thawing/drying and some burning)


damn boss... 2 and a half triaxles of logs?  


You need to work on efficiency.  I'm in USDA climate zone 4 and I only go through 6.5 cord or so in what I consider a fairly inefficient situation.

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## pcosmar

> Wood burning stove = no insurance....


Had that problem looking for Insurance when I got here. Farmers Insurance covers me.

This house was build in 1921,, and was built around wood heat. I have 3 stoves,, but only us 2 right now.

The wife doesn't want to cook on a wood stove, so we use Gas for that.







I don't worry about fire,, I tend those,, and clean my chimney. My concern was some large trees near the house.. and I got rid of one that was threatening.

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## pcosmar

> damn boss... 2 and a half triaxles of logs?  
> 
> 
> You need to work on efficiency.  I'm in USDA climate zone 4 and I only go through 6.5 cord or so in what I consider a fairly inefficient situation.


How big is your house?  How many days are subzero? I generally start a fire in October and it never goes out till April or May.

On really cold days,, I have 2 burning.

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## phill4paul

I've never seen a wood stove like the center one pictured pcosmar. What type/brand is it? Man it is beautiful in design.

  Edit: Is it a Sterling Parlor stove?

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## presence

> I inquired about outdoor boilers, in ground boilers and the carriers response was the same, no open flames..


"no open flames" does not mean "no UL listed wood stoves" 

"Open Flames" refers to bbq grills, 55g drum fires, candles, oil lanterns, etc.



Free your mind and the rest will follow:



> *Facts on Open Burning Under Missouri Regulations
> *
> *
> *
> Open burning is the burning of any materials in which air contaminants are emitted directly 
> 
> into the  air *without first passing through a stack or chimney*
> 
> 
> ...



http://www.dnr.mo.gov/pubs/pub2047.pdf

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## Origanalist

> damn boss... 2 and a half triaxles of logs?  
> 
> 
> You need to work on efficiency.  I'm in USDA climate zone 4 and I only go through 6.5 cord or so in what I consider a fairly inefficient situation.


That is a lot for one season.

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## klamath

> My uncle just converted his 3 car garage to a rocket mass heater, ditching his Vogelzang barrel situation: 
> 
> 
> After his first season on rocket mass he tells me he's heating on 1/4 of the firewood to heat the same space the barrel stove heated, although he does have to chop it smaller; an estwing Fireside Friend 4lb comes in handy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


As a teenager I used to forge knives and swords from the old crosscut blades. Good steel. Home depot is fifty miles away and the pellets would have to be hauled down a quad trail. Not cost effective.

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## pcosmar

> I've never seen a wood stove like the center one pictured pcosmar. What type/brand is it? Man it is beautiful in design.


*
Sterling Oak*. probably not UL approved,,,lol. Cast iron,,with stainless trim.

http://www.goodtimestove.com/compone...etail?Itemid=0

That one came with the house..

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## tod evans

> "no open flames" does not mean "no UL listed wood stoves" 
> 
> Free your mind and the rest will follow:


My insurance has absolutely nothing to do with freeing my mind or using UL approved anything...

A gas fired oven or water heater moves me to the higher bracket not just a woodstove..

We heated the farmhouse growing up with wood and I love wood heat but I love having insurance on my investment more..

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## pcosmar

> That is a lot for one season.


UP winters are legendary. .

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## phill4paul

> *
> Sterling Oak*. probably not UL approved,,,lol. Cast iron,,with stainless trim.
> 
> http://www.goodtimestove.com/compone...etail?Itemid=0
> 
> That one came with the house..


  Thanks. I was able to make out "Ster..." in the picture and from there tracked it down. That is not only utility but an absolute work of art. No wonder they go for around 2k-3k. I haz the stove envy.

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## pcosmar

> My insurance has absolutely nothing to do with freeing my mind or using UL approved anything...
> 
> A gas fired oven or water heater moves me to the higher bracket not just a woodstove..
> 
> We heated the farmhouse growing up with wood and I love wood heat but I love having insurance on my investment more..


Shop around.
I talked to several,, till Farmers insured me.

some wanted no indoor stoves,, one wanted me to take 2 out,, and were still high priced for one.

Farmers,,looked at the house,, and gave me a good deal. but I trust in God and due diligence,,not insurance.

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## presence

> How big is your house?  How many days are subzero? I generally start a fire in October and it never goes out till April or May.
> 
> On really cold days,, I have 2 burning.



1200sqft heated, half 16' cathedral.  Another 400 or so kept at 50.  I generally run constant fire October 15-April 15.   Not sure how many days below zero, but our digital thermometer registered s -19F last year.

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## presence

> A gas fired oven or water heater moves me to the higher bracket not just a woodstove..



bastards






I have a friend with an indoor saw mill; couple dozen employees.  A wood boiler heats hydronic concrete slab off of scrap wood and millings.  I'll ask about who's insuring him next time I see him.

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## pcosmar

OH Yeah,, This thread has not addressed,,

*Clean Your Chimney*

All stoves (and chimneys) create creosote. 
I made a tool for mine,, works better than a brush.. But clean them regularly.
A chimney is basically a distillery,, and Creosote forms constantly.

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## tod evans

> Shop around.
> I talked to several,, till Farmers insured me.
> 
> some wanted no indoor stoves,, one wanted me to take 2 out,, and were still high priced for one.
> 
> Farmers,,looked at the house,, and gave me a good deal. but I trust in God and due diligence,,not insurance.



Believe me I've shopped, I review every year too when the astronomical policy comes due...

And I'm whining about coverage without the $6k additional!

It cost me far less to heat with electric for a couple months than $6K...

----------


## pcosmar

> 1200sqft heated, half 16' cathedral.  Another 400 or so kept at 50.  I generally run constant fire October 15-April 15.   Not sure how many days below zero, but our digital thermometer registered s -19F last year.


mine is about 2100 sq ft. 4 bedroom,, 1 1/2 story. Temps depend on the winter.. but -20 is common (not every day thankfully)

----------


## phill4paul

> OH Yeah,, This thread has not addressed,,
> 
> *Clean Your Chimney*
> 
> All stoves (and chimneys) create creosote. 
> I made a tool for mine,, works better than a brush.. But clean them regularly.
> A chimney is basically a distillery,, and Creosote forms constantly.


  Yes. I learned that lesson well after stoking the morning fire when I lived in Virginia. Thankfully, I had this product on hand and I cannot recommend them enough. They will extinquish a chimney fire in seconds. It was out before the fire department arrived on scene. A bonus, if you can call it that, is that my chimney was super clean after the fire. 



http://chimfex.us/

  Edit: Of note is that the fire department asked where I had gotten them. They thought they were the bees-knees. They usually just sprayed the fire suppressant in their fire extinguishers into a plastic sandwich baggie and dropped it down the chimney.

----------


## presence

> OH Yeah,, This thread has not addressed,,
> 
> *Clean Your Chimney*
> 
> All stoves (and chimneys) create creosote. 
> I made a tool for mine,, works better than a brush.. But clean them regularly.
> A chimney is basically a distillery,, and Creosote forms constantly.



I actually had a big reduction in creosote last year.... I had a triple wall uninsulated metal chimney above my roof line about 10 feet into the wind.  I filled the annular space with vermiculite, and taped all the joints on the outer pipe with aluminum duct tape.  I get a lot less creosote now.   

I generally push 2 sticks of 1/2 pvc pipe up into my chimney and wiggle it around to knock off any big chunks once a month, then I brush the rest out with a traditional chimney brush.





> 



I ran 1/2 copper to the top of my chimney, with a pinhole at the bottom so it doesn't hold water out in the cold.  If I get a chimney fire... usually only happens when I'm tending the fire and keep the door open too long... I have a valve that I can turn on and it extinguishes my chimney from the top side with cold water.

----------


## Origanalist

> OH Yeah,, This thread has not addressed,,
> 
> *Clean Your Chimney*
> 
> All stoves (and chimneys) create creosote. 
> I made a tool for mine,, works better than a brush.. But clean them regularly.
> A chimney is basically a distillery,, and Creosote forms constantly.







> Yes. I learned that lesson well after stoking the morning fire when I lived in Virginia. Thankfully, I had this product on hand and I cannot recommend them enough. They will extinquish a chimney fire in seconds. It was out before the fire department arrived on scene. A bonus, if you can call it that, is that my chimney was super clean after the fire. 
> 
> 
> 
> http://chimfex.us/
> 
>   Edit: Of note is that the fire department asked where I had gotten them. They thought they were the bees-knees. They usually just sprayed the fire suppressant in their fire extinguishers into a plastic sandwich baggie and dropped it down the chimney.


+ rep to both, except I repped the wrong post for pcosmar.

----------


## pcosmar

I made this tool out of an old slide hammer and some lawn mower blades.. It fits my chimney and clears it fast.
I run it down a few times a season..

I do need to change the rope though.. a Stainless cable would work better.

----------


## Barrex

> wet wood will increase creosote production in your chimney... be careful w/ that and inspect 2x month


OR: If you live on a farm you dont and during winter you have free firework. Since it is wet and snow everywhere there is no risk of fire.(Houses here are made of stones and bricks and not wood).
What is the size (hole) of US chimneys that you have to inspect it 2x per month? We dont inspect ours at all and clean them once every few years. 



> I've never used anything but a 6lb maul.  Axes tend to get stuck in the wood rather than ploughing through


Yea. I meant that. Other "technique" is raising axe with wood over your head and smashing it down so it hits blunt end (the one that is still sticking out). DANGER.



> In the US, big insurance and big power have common interests.  So big insurance says 2x or 3x home fire insurance cost for wood stoves in some areas forcing use of "safe" electric/gas/fuel oil heat.  You can get around this by using an "outdoor wood boiler" and hydronic system.  
> http://www.insure.com/home-insurance...e-heating.html





> I have a woodworking business on my property  and one of the requirements of the insurance company is no open flames,  even burning scrap (if caught) is grounds for them to invalidate the  policy.
> I can change companies but the difference in premiums is ridiculous, $6k year!
> I inquired about outdoor boilers, in ground boilers and the carriers response was the same, no open flames..


Yea. I figured that. It has little to do with safety. It is about  monopoly and restricted market (government doesnt allow anyone to start  insurance company) and calculation of extra profit. They earn more money  that way.

----------


## presence

> Since it is wet and snow everywhere there is no risk of fire.(Houses here are made of stones and bricks and not wood).
> What is the size (hole) of US chimneys that you have to inspect it 2x per month?


Few homes in the US are stone/brick construction... and those that are are generally facade over wood.  Its difficult and expensive to pull permits to build anything in the US that does not have nominal 2"x4" or 2"x6" studded walls spaced 16" on center.  You'll fight a 10 year legal battle trying to build a log or stone home from trees and stone on  your own land in any incorporated US town.  

Most chimneys in the US that I've run into are 6" single or double wall inside the home w/ 6" triple wall outside.  Some stoves run on 8" pipe.   Masonry chimneys with block and clay liner are few and far between in the states.  


Typical US wood stove situation:






The chimney kits are about $650, qualify for homeowners insurance out of the box (UL listed), but generally suck (thin metal) and go bad in 10 - 15 years.  


I have an old masonry chimney in my home that is not being used because the clay liner is shattered top to bottom.  I'm going to re line it next year and relocate my boiler.  I'll use automotive  6" ss diesel tailpipe/exhaust and fill the annular space between the masonry and steel w/ vermiculite.  It should last forever and eliminate most of my creosote issues.   The added perk is the room I'll be moving the boiler to has concrete floors walls and ceiling = excellent thermal mass.

----------


## 69360

Why homeowners insurance? Required for a mortgage? 

I don't bother with homeowners insurance. I accept the risk. My place is paid for and I can afford to replace it if needed. I wouldn't get car insurance either if it wasn't mandatory.

----------


## Tod

I stopped using my fireplace because it is in questionable condition.  It never was efficient enough to heat the house anyway.  If I start burning wood again, it will be in a Rocket Mass Heater.

I have one of those chainsaws ending in HL, used to have one of those junky green and black ones.  Another good brand, according to my small engine mechanic nephew, is Husqvarna. (he actually likes them slightly better than stihl).

Tried the little dremel bits with no luck.

----------


## presence

> Tried the little dremel bits with no luck.



???

How do you keep your chain sharp?

----------


## Tod

I take them to the shop where I bought the saw and they sharpen it with a large disc mounted on a stand kind of like a drill press, kind of like that one in the OP.  Costs a couple bucks and they can sharpen a chain in just a couple minutes.  I don't cut a whole lot of wood, so I don't need to do it often.  If I did use the saw a lot, I'd figure out a way to do it myself.

----------


## pcosmar

> ???
> 
> How do you keep your chain sharp?


I use a file..with a guide. Takes a few minutes to dress it.

Oh,, and someone mentioned Husqvarna.and someone else Jonsared.
 It depends on which color you prefer.. Red or orange.. They are exactly the same machine..

As are Sears Craftsman and Poulan.  the only difference is plastic color and stickers.

Edit,,
Damn, Husky also owns PoulanPro. (whodathunkit)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Husqvarna_AB

----------


## presence

> I take them to the shop where I bought the saw and they sharpen it with a large disc mounted on a stand kind of like a drill press, kind of like that one in the OP.  Costs a couple bucks and they can sharpen a chain in just a couple minutes.  I don't cut a whole lot of wood, so I don't need to do it often.  If I did use the saw a lot, I'd figure out a way to do it myself.




On each tooth (on most decent brands of chain... oregon, stihl, craftsman, etc) there is a little engraved line near the back end of the tooth which gives you the angle to file the tooth to.    Using that line and a rotary tool (with tip sized for YOUR chain pitch; 3/16, 7/32, etc.) you want to grind every tooth back until 1) you have a straight edge parallel with the engraving and 2) 2/3 of the dremel tip tucks under the tooth.  3) its sharp.  Never grind the top side of the tooth, only the under side; and if there is any damage to the top edge... keep grinding from the underside until you cut back beyond the topside damage.

    I use an "in and out" motion to keep wear on my dremel tips consistant; but I always maintain the same angle.  Don't grind any one tooth for more than a 4 second count so it doesn't heat up; you might have to go around the chain 2 or 3 times if its really beat up.  Too much heat will anneal the steel.    I usually do all the teeth in one direction on the top of the bar, then all the teeth in the other direction on top of the bar.... then advance the chain and repeat.

  There are three types of tips I've found, red abrasive, black abrasive, and diamond.  I find the red abrasive cuts nice but wears out too fast and spindles down quickly to too small diameter.  Black (oregon) lasts the longest but does slowly whittle down.  The diamond wears out somewhere in the middle, but maintains its diameter best until all the diamond dust wears off.   

I used to do the file thing... dremel is just so much faster and less labor intensive though when dealing with "dirty" commercial logs that have been dragged on the dirt and cause need for frequent resharpening.  The one down side to dremel sharpening vs file is the need for safety glasses to keep the oily metal dust out of your eyes... I usually wear sunglasses though when cutting.

  Another thing I do, which helps keep the blood pressure down... I have about a dozen blades and I make them all razor sharp every spring.  This way whenever a blade gets beyond what a quick sharpening will turn back around (say I hit a nail in a tree)... I just take it off and put on a new one; and put the old one on a hook for sharpening day next spring.

----------


## phill4paul

> *I use a file..with a guide. Takes a few minutes to dress it.*
> 
> Oh,, and someone mentioned Husqvarna.and someone else Jonsared.
>  It depends on which color you prefer.. Red or orange.. They are exactly the same machine..
> 
> As are Sears Craftsman and Poulan.  the only difference is plastic color and stickers.


  Same. But I do own a Dremel and an battery inverter. Might be worth checking out. Personally, I've always considered sharpening time as "beer break and a smoke" time and I don't know if I want to speed that process up.

----------


## presence

Well...  I had a triaxle of logs delivered when I began this thread... its all chopped into firewood now 9 days later.  Today = day of rest.   Pile of firewood pieces chopped to 4" x 4" x 16" or less is about 40' long 10' wide at base and heaped 5' tall.  Its going to sit where it is for a bit until I have time to stack it square.   6lb maul and 2 Stihl chainsaws still in good working order.  Me = lost 6 lbs; arms a little thicker, abs a little tighter... overall very sore, a little blistered on the palms, and thankful for a day off.  




Cost for winter on propane = 3300
Cost for winter on logs < 600

Savings = 2700

/9 days  

= $300 daily for my labor


+ got to stay at home w/ family in the state forest


(not to mention tax implications had I earned the money to buy the propane)

----------


## phill4paul

Just a bump for relevance to what we have been discussing about chimney cleaning. It's finally gonna hit the 30 degrees in N.C. at night this week. I checked the chimney last month and it was still clean from last year. However, as the cold weather is now upon me I did the inside cleaning. The actual stove pipe and thimble. Sure enough the thimble was caked. Make sure your chimney inspection is thorough and have a safe and warm winter!

----------


## pcosmar

Today's project,, a little wood for the fire.. Getting to be that time of year.



Two truck loads.. The truck is fine till the snow flies,, then it's the "other truck".

----------


## Icymudpuppy

Nothing against Stihls, but I'm fond of Husqvarnas myself.  The balance is better.

Here is what I have.  a 372XPW 75cc with 32" bar.

----------


## Icymudpuppy

> Another thing I do, which helps keep the blood pressure down... I have about a dozen blades and I make them all razor sharp every spring.  This way whenever a blade gets beyond what a quick sharpening will turn back around (say I hit a nail in a tree)... I just take it off and put on a new one; and put the old one on a hook for sharpening day next spring.


I'm lazy.  I have several chains that I do the same thing, but instead of sharpening them myself, I take them down to the local saw shop and they sharpen them all up in no time, and little money.  My time is too valuable to bother with sharpening my own chains.

----------


## presence

Log truck arrives today.   I'm kinda upset, I ordered it in July.     Luckily I still have half a load split from last season.

$600

----------


## tod evans

Yesterday I helped out a friend and got to run a brand new Poulan 18" saw..

Didn't impress me one bit but it was light.

----------


## brushfire

Cody has a few equipment reviews and a lot of various timber framing /gardening /firewood videos.

Some in this thread  may find his channel interesting

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCMI...VHtvgSVf6TgfUg

----------


## phill4paul

Was gifted some firewood not long back. A friend of a friend had to put their dad in a home and said I could come get all the firewood I wanted. Managed 4 pick-up truck loads for myself and four for a friend. Already spit and aged hardwood. Good deal.

----------


## presence

On about 600 sqft of low pile commerical and some indoor/outdoor carpet I just rolled a bucket of black fibred roof coating:



I torch melted the edges to stop it from running... best damn firewood tarps money can buy

----------


## phill4paul

Ha! Was thinking about this thread today. Just brushed the chimney and stove pipe, replaced the window gasket and have the stove ready for the cold weather. Timely bump presence. +rep.

----------


## moostraks

Bought an awesome wood stove we need to hook up on the second floor but haven't quite made it there for like 3 maybe 4 years now. We need to get the project done. We have a fireplace on the first floor we had to use in a pinch in the first years we were learning and repairing the gas boiler system. First serious frost yesterday morning. The cold is a comin'...

----------


## ClydeCoulter

> Bought an awesome wood stove we need to hook up on the second floor but haven't quite made it there for like 3 maybe 4 years now. We need to get the project done. We have a fireplace on the first floor we had to use in a pinch in the first years we were learning and repairing the gas boiler system. First serious frost yesterday morning. The cold is a comin'...


Just do it!

I have to clean the house and shop chimneys, and finish the lean-to for the tractor and implements.  I just finished putting in the frostless hydrants to the cows and the shop today (have more covering to do, but almost done, will wait for the rain to pass and then finish covering the last 4-6" out of 36", about 400' of line)

----------


## oyarde

> Ha! Was thinking about this thread today. Just brushed the chimney and stove pipe, replaced the window gasket and have the stove ready for the cold weather. Timely bump presence. +rep.


Going to brush my chimney Sat

----------


## JK/SEA

I have 10 cords ready. Fired up the stove yesterday for a test run, and burn out the cob webs in the stack.... I'm just north of Seattle by 30 miles. 2 story house. I get my wood delivered chopped and dried. 2 1/2 cords @ 450 bucks. I did chop down some LARGE cotton wood trees early this year and got about 4 cords out of it. Yeah, cotton wood is ok...Its free BTU's. The rest is fir.

Bring on winter..

----------


## ClydeCoulter

> I have 10 cords ready. Fired up the stove yesterday for a test run, and burn out the cob webs in the stack.... I'm just north of Seattle by 30 miles. 2 story house. I get my wood delivered chopped and dried. 2 1/2 cords @ 450 bucks. I did chop down some LARGE cotton wood trees early this year and got about 4 cords out of it. Yeah, cotton wood is ok...Its free BTU's. The rest is fir.
> 
> Bring on winter..


I'm currently paying 50.00 per rick (2 ricks is a chord) skinned (no bark) hardwood (red elm or ash, once in a while cherry).

It is good that you are ready!

----------


## oyarde

I burn , mostly , Hickory , Cherry , then some Walnut , Maple ,white Oak ,Beech, then mix in a little Poplar and Sycamore if I have any left from my last bonfires of the yr. Apple trimmings get saved for smoking.I have even burned Birch , Osage Orange , Locust  , Paw Paw and about anything dead , I normally never cut live trees . Just burn all the dead stuff from my two closest properties , the other one is two far away to justify burning the gas to get wood . Guy down the way from me a few miles, towards the bait & tackle ( to the West) charges $50 a rick for Ash and it sells , I noticed last weekend all he had out for sale was already gone. I will be cutting and splitting again this coming weekend , have been for a good while already , but took last weekend off for a Funeral for a close friend

----------


## JK/SEA

Its starting to get cold at night now. Mid 40's. I wake up at 5:30am every morning and the temp in the house is hitting 72 in the morning. Almost fired up the stove, but then as the day warms the temp gets to 81 with the wood stove going, so its now a balancing act. When the wife starts telling me its cold in the mornings is when i will go into full tilt burning non stop....

I like to maintain the house temp at or near 80 at night depending on any cold snaps, and those will be coming very soon...

I still dream about moving to Hawaii....Kauai to be exact.

----------


## oyarde

> Its starting to get cold at night now. Mid 40's. I wake up at 5:30am every morning and the temp in the house is hitting 72 in the morning. Almost fired up the stove, but then as the day warms the temp gets to 81 with the wood stove going, so its now a balancing act. When the wife starts telling me its cold in the mornings is when i will go into full tilt burning non stop....
> 
> I like to maintain the house temp at or near 80 at night depending on any cold snaps, and those will be coming very soon...
> 
> I still dream about moving to Hawaii....Kauai to be exact.


I am happy if I can keep it around 68 to 70 in the winter and 75 to 77 in the summer.If the Mrs was not here I would be even worse.

----------


## presence

> Its starting to get cold at night now. Mid 40's.


We're religious about no heat April 15th to October 15th.  This year it looks like we'll be able to push it off until October 19th.   Its chilly but all south facing windows are nice!

----------


## ClydeCoulter

> I am happy if I can keep it around 68 to 70 in the winter and 75 to 77 in the summer.If the Mrs was not here I would be even worse.


That's about where I try to keep it, also.

----------


## JK/SEA

> That's about where I try to keep it, also.


i hear ya, but these 'old bones' need heat now...i''m with Oyarde on the keeping it cooler, but yeah...i'm married...lol...

----------


## ClydeCoulter

> i hear ya, but these 'old bones' need heat now...i''m with Oyarde on the keeping it cooler, but yeah...i'm married...lol...


My wife is starting to get used to it.  But I can't handle the temps being too large of a swing going in and out of the house.  Of course, 68 to 20 is still a pretty large swing, but not as bad as 80 to 20 (it's not 20 here yet, but... you know what I mean).  If I need to get warm quick, in the winter, I get next to the wood stove for a bit.

----------


## pcosmar

> Going to brush my chimney Sat


I made up a tool,, Works better than a brush for my chimney.



I did replace the rope with a SS cable.

----------


## moostraks

> Just do it!
> 
> I have to clean the house and shop chimneys, and finish the lean-to for the tractor and implements.  I just finished putting in the frostless hydrants to the cows and the shop today (have more covering to do, but almost done, will wait for the rain to pass and then finish covering the last 4-6" out of 36", about 400' of line)


 Woah, you've been busy. Current project is trying to get dh to help finish the art room we are remodeling on the second floor for our homeschooling. He gets pissy when I come up with too many projects at once and the room with the heater is largely storage right now, so bottom of ta list it goes. Hopefully we won't get stuck wishing we bumped that project up. The stupid zone control went out on the boiler so we are running on only one for now until we get that part in a few days. Thankfully the boiler has not picked the brutally cold days to pitch a tantrum, but each year it is something that needs replaced...

----------


## ClydeCoulter

> I made up a tool,, Works better than a brush for my chimney.
> 
> _(image of cool tool removed for brevity)_
> 
> I did replace the rope with a SS cable.


I have to use a brush, my chimneys are SS.  The house is metalbestos, and the shop is triple wall.  

I think your tool might damage the metal stacks.  But, it looks much easier than screwing on extensions.  I always start getting cramps trying to screws those dang things on.  The house chimney is ~22'.

----------


## pcosmar

> I have to use a brush, my chimneys are SS.  The house is metalbestos, and the shop is triple wall.  
> 
> I think your tool might damage the metal stacks.  But, it looks much easier than screwing on extensions.  I always start getting cramps trying to screws those dang things on.  The house chimney is ~22'.


You could redesign one to fit your Chimney,, most probably. Mine is square tile, inside concrete block. . and this cuts the corners where a brush won't clean.

I get a lot of build up,, and clear it regularly.

BTW,, it is an old slide hammer and some re-purposed worn out  lawnmower blades.
(pack-rat ftw)

----------


## osan

> I have 10 cords ready. Fired up the stove yesterday for a test run, and burn out the cob webs in the stack.... I'm just north of Seattle by 30 miles. 2 story house. I get my wood delivered chopped and dried. 2 1/2 cords @ 450 bucks. I did chop down some LARGE cotton wood trees early this year and got about 4 cords out of it. Yeah, cotton wood is ok...Its free BTU's. The rest is fir.
> 
> Bring on winter..


Anywhere near Monroe?  I used to sweat up there.

----------


## presence

> I have to use a brush, my chimneys are SS.  The house is metalbestos, and the shop is triple wall.  
> 
> I think your tool might damage the metal stacks.  But, it looks much easier than screwing on extensions.  I always start getting cramps trying to screws those dang things on.  The house chimney is ~22'.


On the subject of extensions... I use 1/2 copper with male and female adapters.  In the top female adapter I have a 1/2 x 1/4 bushing.  the brushes  you buy at home depot are 1/4' straight pipe thread which screws into the 1/4' tapered pipe thread well enough.   My copper rods are much more tough than those fibre glass ones you can buy commercially. 


Lit the fire today.  Woke up to 55' in the house... that doesn't cut it 




From this day forward the fire shall burn!

----------


## pcosmar

> Lit the fire today.  Woke up to 55' in the house... that doesn't cut it


Mine has been burning for a couple weeks already.  since early October.
I usually light it about now.. but it has been cool all summer, and fall isn't warm either.

----------


## luctor-et-emergo

We have tried to use a flexible (tho rigid) plastic hose (polypropylene, about 1", used for gas/water here) with a brush on top. The theory is that you can push it up from the bottom. It didn't work here because we have a flexible SS liner that goes up in a slight spiral, creating a lot of drag on the tool. Sadly this meant I had to climb the roof, some 28ft or so. 

So far the stove hasn't been used, I don't have a clue why though. I am amazed though that the price for firewood here is about the same as in the US. We pay about 180euro per cord for decent birch/oak. I would have expected our firewood to be much more expensive. Maybe it helps that very few people here still us wood fired stoves. Well still a few but probably less than in the US.

----------


## ClydeCoulter

I wish I had gone with 8" instead of 6" on the house.  I usually have to clean the elbow and cross pipe in the basement around Jan each year.

----------


## ClydeCoulter

> We have tried to use a flexible (tho rigid) plastic hose (polypropylene, about 1", used for gas/water here) with a brush on top. The theory is that you can push it up from the bottom. It didn't work here because we have a flexible SS liner that goes up in a slight spiral, creating a lot of drag on the tool. Sadly this meant I had to climb the roof, some 28ft or so. 
> 
> So far the stove hasn't been used, I don't have a clue why though. I am amazed though that the price for firewood here is about the same as in the US. We pay about 180euro per cord for decent birch/oak. I would have expected our firewood to be much more expensive. Maybe it helps that very few people here still us wood fired stoves. Well still a few but probably less than in the US.


I need to find a better way.

----------


## luctor-et-emergo

> I wish I had gone with 8" instead of 6" on the house.  I usually have to clean the elbow and cross pipe in the basement around Jan each year.


The house has a 6" flue here as well. If I'd have to rebuild it I would also upgrade to an 8 inch flue as well as putting in an access panel on the first floor. Not having an access panel really sucks. It could still be a flexible liner since that's pretty nice with movement inside the building but access half way in is really nice. My pizza oven is going to get an 8" flue anyways, otherwise the risk of smoke in your face is too big .

----------


## JK/SEA

> Anywhere near Monroe?  I used to sweat up there.



Monroe is about 20 miles east of me.

This time last year i had the stove going daily, in the mornings. This year however its warmer than usual, so, i'm saving wood. Always nice when that happens. Still in the 60's during the day, and low 50's  at night....i can't can't justify starting it up daily yet...

----------


## osan

> Mine has been burning for a couple weeks already.  since early October.
> I usually light it about now.. but it has been cool all summer, and fall isn't warm either.


But... but... _global warming!_

----------


## osan

> Monroe is about 20 miles east of me.
> 
> This time last year i had the stove going daily, in the mornings. This year however its warmer than usual, so, i'm saving wood. Always nice when that happens. Still in the 60's during the day, and low 50's  at night....i can't can't justify starting it up daily yet...



About 6 or 7 years ago we had the wood stove running on and off all summer.  It was chilly at night.

I suppose I should now prepare for a global warming entry team to make its presence felt in the next few minutes.  It's been nice knowing y'all.

----------


## pcosmar

> But... but... _global warming!_


If only,,,

I would welcome it.

----------


## jbauer

//

----------


## jbauer

> Tried the little dremel bits with no luck.


I use one of the $200 wastes of money from the OP and love it.  As long as you use it correctly and adjust it as needed based on your chain condition they work great.  I swap chains every other tank of gas or so and mainly do that because nothing beats a nice sharp chain.  Takes me about 5 minutes per chain to sharpen them.

----------


## oyarde

I split wood yesterday and today , hoping I have enough to last to Feb 1 done now , that just leaves Feb to cover , Think I have enough trees down I dropped last Easter to cover that once I get them sawed and split. It is snowing here ,started hard by about 3:00 this afternoon .

----------


## oyarde

Considering the past three weeks , I may have to recalculate and get busier .

----------


## phill4paul

> Considering the past three weeks , I may have to recalculate and get busier .


  Lol. Same here.

----------


## presence

Split and stacked:

4.5 x 7 x 7 = 220 ft3 =  on pallets, under roof 
6 x 9 x 4.5 = 243 ft3 = on pallets, under carpet and 60mil pond liner 
10 x 13 x 4 = 520 ft3 = on deck, under tarred carpet

983 / 128 = 7.67 cord

+ 120 unsplit 10" to 14" unsplit seasoned rounds
+ 8 @ 10 feet x 12" seasoned logs

ordered:
1 triaxle load March Delivery (7 cord)

already consumed since 10/20:
3 x 4 x 7 = 84 =  0.65 cord

----------


## JK/SEA

> I split wood yesterday and today , hoping I have enough to last to Feb 1 done now , that just leaves Feb to cover , Think I have enough trees down I dropped last Easter to cover that once I get them sawed and split. It is snowing here ,started hard by about 3:00 this afternoon .


how many cords do you have now, and how many cords did you burn last winter?

i have 10 cords this year. I burned about 6 cords last year.

same question to anyone burning wood.

tia..

----------


## Suzanimal

Okay, y'all might know this trick but I sure didn't. It's painful to watch the boys splitting wood, I think this would help out a lot.

----------


## phill4paul

> Okay, y'all might know this trick but I sure didn't. It's painful to watch the boys splitting wood, I think this would help out a lot.


  I do it this way. Sometimes. Good on poplar. Won't work with oak.

----------


## FrancisMarion

You folks that have a continuous fire through winter ever looked into masonry stoves?

From what I have read they are better than metal.  The thermal mass might take a little longer to get to temp, but once your there, your cozy.

I imagine they are expensive and you would have to be a highly skilled mason to build one.

----------


## Suzanimal

> I do it this way. Sometimes. Good on poplar. Won't work with oak.


Good to know, they're working on an oak tree.

----------


## Suzanimal

Wow, that is nice.




> You folks that have a continuous fire through winter ever looked into masonry stoves?
> 
> From what I have read they are better than metal.  The thermal mass might take a little longer to get to temp, but once your there, your cozy.
> 
> I imagine they are expensive and you would have to be a highly skilled mason to build one.

----------


## oyarde

> Good to know, they're working on an oak tree.


Phil is right .It would work on poplar , maybe pine but probably not hickory , sycamore etc

----------


## oyarde

> how many cords do you have now, and how many cords did you burn last winter?
> 
> i have 10 cords this year. I burned about 6 cords last year.
> 
> same question to anyone burning wood.
> 
> tia..


 I am probably down to four rick now , probably 8 would get me through end of Feb .I am not even sure how much I burnt last year , probably more than I ever have , even in the late 70's .I will probably get stated on my Feb splitting this coming weekend .

----------


## JK/SEA

> I am probably down to four rick now , probably 8 would get me through end of Feb .I am not even sure how much I burnt last year , probably more than I ever have , even in the late 70's .I will probably get stated on my Feb splitting this coming weekend .


wish i could help you split. I love doing this. Great exercise and clears my head...

i started burning in mid Oct., and i've burned just over 4 cords now....weatherman is predicting a warmer winter here in the PNW which if holds true, i will have a nice inventory left over for next winter of which i will just add to....yay...

----------


## luctor-et-emergo

Started burning early November.. Burned through half a cord so far, we're having a really mild winter, normally we'd have used double and 5 gallons of petroleum in the upstairs petroleum heater. So far I have used a tiny amount of petroleum, not even a pint. 

Just took delivery of a cord of wood today. More oak/birch mix which does fine. Time to do some splitting.

----------


## phill4paul

Started in Oct. Probably went through a cord and a half. Small stove. Jotul w/ a 18"x10"x12"  box. Just a supplemental/emergency heat for the living area. I like the bedroom cooler. Have enough to get through Jan. Need to split for Feb. but flu/cold had me down. Hopefully finish off this years after New Years.

----------


## tod evans

> wish i could help you split. I love doing this. Great exercise and clears my head...
> 
> i started burning in mid Oct., and i've burned just over 4 cords now....weatherman is predicting a warmer winter here in the PNW which if holds true, i will have a nice inventory left over for next winter of which i will just add to....yay...


I've split wood in Oregon and I've split wood in the Ozarks, if orarde's trees are like we grow here ya' won't catch me volunteering to split it...

Things are a bit easier working in below 30 degree temps but no matter how you approach oak-n-elm it doesn't split like alder....

----------


## Barrex

> You folks that have a continuous fire through winter ever looked into masonry stoves?
> 
> From what I have read they are better than metal.  The thermal mass might take a little longer to get to temp, but once your there, your cozy.
> 
> I imagine they are expensive and you would have to be a highly skilled mason to build one.


I am  looking for designs for big open fireplace...preferably open on 3 sieds but I cant find good instructions (hight of chimney, placement of damper,slope etc.).

----------


## phill4paul

> I am  looking for designs for big open fireplace...preferably open on 3 sieds but I cant find good instructions (hight of chimney, placement of damper,slope etc.).


  Seems to me tat a design like this should be stand alone. It's true that most heat goes up a chimney, however, that is also where creosote buildup occurs. I see no way to clean these so it seems that a "chimney fire" would have to occur on occasion to affect a reset.

----------


## oyarde

> I've split wood in Oregon and I've split wood in the Ozarks, if orarde's trees are like we grow here ya' won't catch me volunteering to split it...
> 
> Things are a bit easier working in below 30 degree temps but no matter how you approach oak-n-elm it doesn't split like alder....


 True , most of the good burning wood I split here is a bitch  Worked @ it yesterday and will again next weekend , hopefully that gets me through Feb , then . Ten degrees out now .

----------


## luctor-et-emergo

Just split a weeks supply of wood.. I think it's nice to do on the weekends. I know, it's Friday, well thats when my weekend starts. The weekends is when I'm self employed so still plenty of work...

Anyways, I've figured out that a weeks supply is a neatly stacked pile of about 2x3ft, footlong pieces of firewood. 

It's burned in one of these; 
Very nice piece of equipment, although after 20 years it needs some new ceramic rope and caulking... Sometimes she can be a bit smelly but the draw from the chimney is good enough that it's not a direct worry, also the room it sits in is rather big so any bad gasses can spread out before they become a problem.. 

It has been below freezing for a while now, actually a decent winter.. I've gone through about 1 1/2 cords this winter, probably the same still until spring arrives. The actual cold weather here is usually more in Feb/Mar. We don't get many white Christmases.

----------


## presence

> Just split a weeks supply of wood..


You asked via rep if I owned a Gransfors splitting maul... 

No.   

I'm using an old maul head that I've now put a few handles through and if you check the note below the image on the front page of the OP:




> This is a 6lb splitting maul.    I destroy a triaxle of logs every year with one of these    Note the metal handle guard, finding a maul with a guard like this is  difficult... I screw 5"x5" square, bent U shaped, piece of heavy 16g  galv sheet metal on to my handle just below my maul head... it ensures  your hickory handle lasts 5 years instead of 1.  I also like to coat the  wood where it passes through the maul head with some kind of petroleum  product... used motor oil works well to ensure longevity; lately I like  the smell of diesel.    If your maul came with a cute leather sheath  like the one above... throw it in the weeds.



I do find that a metal handle guard added after market to any wooden handle maul is crucial for longevity.

----------


## Suzanimal

A simple way to store kindling.

----------


## osan

> On about 600 sqft of low pile commerical and some indoor/outdoor carpet I just rolled a bucket of black fibred roof coating:
> 
> 
> 
> I torch melted the edges to stop it from running... best damn firewood tarps money can buy


And if you keep your eyes open, you can get the carpet for nothing.  Wall to wall is a nasty thing to put in one's house and some people see the light and out on the curb it goes.  Scoop it up and you're fixed.

----------


## osan

> You folks that have a continuous fire through winter ever looked into masonry stoves?
> 
> From what I have read they are better than metal.  The thermal mass might take a little longer to get to temp, but once your there, your cozy.
> 
> I imagine they are expensive and *you would have to be a highly skilled mason to build one.*


Not necessarily.  Masonry is mostly very straightforward.  There is some magic there, but that's for very special tricks.

If you have a blueprint and can lay block, which is not that difficult a job if you understand the concepts of "level", "plumb", "square", and "straight".

----------


## luctor-et-emergo

First cord of firewood was delivered, just lit the first fire of the year. It was immediately comforting to sit in front of the window watching the flames.

----------


## brandon

Ohh I can kind of join this thread now that I'm a homeowner.  My house is primarily heated by an oil boiler, but we have a wood fireplace in the living room which is on a slab foundation and does get cold.

I only bought a mere half cord for the year. Already through like a quarter of it. Will have to get a full one for next winter.

----------


## presence

I'm at +/-

2.5 cord under roof split small
2.5 under tarred carpet on deck split small
2.5 in the sun quartered
2.5 in rounds
2.5 in 10' logs near the house
2.5 cord in 10' logs that need to get hauled in off the land


I figure I'll need about 6-7 cord for the winter; its splitting season for me, I try to chop a 1/4 to 1/2 cord daily after morning coffee 

I burn 10/20 to 4/20 nonstop

Its about 68 indoors right now, on south facing windows alone; high today of 55.

----------


## luctor-et-emergo

> I'm at +/-
> 
> 2.5 cord under roof split small
> 2.5 under tarred carpet on deck split small
> 2.5 in the sun quartered
> 2.5 in rounds
> 2.5 in 10' logs near the house
> 2.5 cord in 10' logs that need to get hauled in off the land
> 
> ...


That's quite a nice stack of firewood you got there. I really love chopping wood.. Now that I have a good axe it feels like a good workout instead of punishment... And for some reason, it's a lot of fun.. Also making a nice stack, it's just satisfying work. 

Cleaned the chimney earlier today, then immediately after lit a fire. I only had 2-3 cups of creosote from 5 months of daily fires.. Pretty good I'd say.

----------


## oyarde

i think I am getting close to having enough cut to last to beginning of Feb or so .I just need to get it all split and work on Feb and first half of March or so.

----------


## phill4paul

Glad the thread was resurrected. I'm splitting the walnut and oak from last year. The ladies cousin dropped two oaks last year and had it cut to our size. Will go get it with the truck and trailer this weekend. Then more splitting.  I pre-cleaned the flue at end of last year so...good to go this weekend when the night time temps drop into the 30's.
Of course I probably won't need all this wood because...97% of scientists concur.

----------


## tod evans

For the yuppies;

----------


## jllundqu

I wish to god I lived in a state that had four seasons... I live in Arizona where it's always warm, even in winter.  I have a fireplace, and we use it in winter, but no real cold weather.  I don't even go thru a cord per season.  I would love to chop wood

----------


## specsaregood

./

----------


## Anti Federalist



----------


## presence



----------


## presence



----------


## phill4paul

I used this method to build a firewood rack on the back porch. Easy to assemble/disassemble. Low cost (I already had the materials).Since my rack is under the covered porch I use the space under the landscape timbers for kindling.

http://www.instructables.com/id/No-tools-firewood-rack/








> Building a no-tools-needed firewood rack
> 
> A stable, strong, easily-movable, cheap firewood rack is a thought-provoking project.  This is what i have used for years and it works extremely well.
> 
> It holds a face-cord of heavy, wet wood with no problem and is very stable.
> This is what you need:
>      2 or 3 concrete blocks
>      2 landscape timbers
>      2 2x4s  - 8 or 10 footers cut in half.
> ...

----------


## oyarde

> I'll just put this here.
> http://www.abc.net.au/science/articl...22/3830928.htm


Maybe I should not have been chopping wood on the same days I played Soccer .

----------


## oyarde

I was splitting wood Sun , kept thinking Danke would stop by to help so I could drink some beer , he never showed .........

----------


## Danke

> I was splitting wood Sun , kept thinking Danke would stop by to help so I could drink some beer , he never showed .........


I was in training.

----------


## oyarde

> I was in training.


Somehow I $#@!ed up  , I bought some peanuts packaged in New Jersey and they have no salt . I was ripped off , if you had been here , this was preventable. If I had been able to read the package , I would have known better, $#@!ing Jersey , LOL

----------


## oyarde

I am enjoying my fire , built yesterday.Waiting for the snow . Plenty of wood and bourbon .Told the Mrs. , no , I cannot take you to town for dinner tonight , it is going to snow , LOL

----------


## luctor-et-emergo

So far we haven't had temps below freezing, in fact, apart from the short days and lack of leaves in trees it looks like autumn here. 

I've heard there's a high pressure area somewhere in the colder parts of Russia that will give us a good taste of some more colder air while we previously had a lot of warmer but stormy weather coming from the Atlantic.

So. Today I cleaned up the area next to the house, thought I might wear my thermal boots, stepped into a rusty nail. Luckily my boots are more than an inch thick so the nail only went into my foot a tiny amount. Not enough to stop me, put on my COLD safety boots and cleaned all of the crap out. 

A cord of Oak/Birch mix was delivered. Last time it had more oak, this time more birch, sucks, the oak burns much cleaner imo. But it's cheap, about 180$ total. If you go to any of the bigger suppliers you'll pay double that for $#@!tier wood. 

I'm hoping for a lot of snow quickly.. Snow and really low temperatures are much more comfortable in winter here. If it's a bit warmer you get more stormy weather, lots of rain. This being an old house, wind is our enemy as it basically blows straight into the house through all the small holes and stuff. So please, lots of snow ! Get some of that insulation stuff on the roof

----------


## oyarde

Started to feel like Jan here past couple weeks , some tough Temp.'s , no global warming .

----------


## luctor-et-emergo

My F-ing chainsaw died on me right after I had felled a big old willow tree.. The thing is of course conveniently positioned. NOT. So I'll have to get a new chainsaw tomorrow... Damnit. It was an electric chainsaw and ok, they suck, I know. But I got it, it was very cheap and it has served it's purpose for years but I am thinking of getting a gas powered one with a little bit longer chain. 

Just my kind of luck though. Not that I mind a new chainsaw, really.

----------


## luctor-et-emergo

I am in love... 

I got one of the smaller models gas powered chainsaws. It's a 14" I believe. 3hp or so. But it's Husqvarna and made in Sweden so I guess that's better than Chinese crap, I don't know. All I know it's a pretty reputable brand. 

Tested it out for a couple hours this afternoon on the big willow tree. The tree was reduced to small enough pieces to carry in no-time .I'd say the gas powered chainsaw (even though it technically has the same rated HP's) is about 6 times as effective. The chain on the electric one was old but I had recently sharpened it so it wasn't too dull. IDK, I kind of wish the electric one would have broken a long time ago because this is a lot faster and it appears to have much more power. 

Main problem right now.. I've only got one more tree left to take down.

----------


## Danke

Are chainsaws legal in the Netherlands?

----------


## Petar

> Are chainsaws legal in the Netherlands?


Are staplers legal in the USA?

----------


## Danke

> Are staplers legal in the USA?


Yes.

----------


## Petar

> Yes.


Is it possible to chop down a tree with a stapler?

----------


## pcosmar

> I am in love... 
> 
> I got one of the smaller models gas powered chainsaws. It's a 14" I believe. 3hp or so. But it's Husqvarna and made in Sweden so I guess that's better than Chinese crap, I don't know. All I know it's a pretty reputable brand.


Husqvarna is a good brand.
Jonsered and Poulan are owned by them as well.. I used the Poulan 18" and they took the abuse.

----------


## Anti Federalist

Andreas Stihl is upset.

----------


## Anti Federalist

I was going to say, do your self a huge favor and only use stuff like this in it and not auto gas mixed with oil:

http://www.vp-sef.com/index.php/why-vp-sef

Then I remembered you are in Europe and not having to deal with the garbage that is called gasoline and diesel fuel, and the damage it does to small engines, like we are here in the land of the free, due to Uncle Sucker's _fatwas_.




> I am in love... 
> 
> I got one of the smaller models gas powered chainsaws. It's a 14" I believe. 3hp or so. But it's Husqvarna and made in Sweden so I guess that's better than Chinese crap, I don't know. All I know it's a pretty reputable brand. 
> 
> Tested it out for a couple hours this afternoon on the big willow tree. The tree was reduced to small enough pieces to carry in no-time .I'd say the gas powered chainsaw (even though it technically has the same rated HP's) is about 6 times as effective. The chain on the electric one was old but I had recently sharpened it so it wasn't too dull. IDK, I kind of wish the electric one would have broken a long time ago because this is a lot faster and it appears to have much more power. 
> 
> Main problem right now.. I've only got one more tree left to take down.

----------


## Suzanimal

Mr Animal's red chainsaw has been a good one. His neon green one sucked, btw. I have to admit, he's treated the red chainsaw better or that's what he tells me. 

We gave all of our firewood to our elderly neighbors. My son delivered it before we left for vacation. They pay him to split, deliver and stack with banana bread. I told him I'm going to make him a will work for food sign.

----------


## Danke

> Mr Animal's red chainsaw has been a good one. His neon green one sucked, btw. I have to admit, he's treated the red chainsaw better or that's what he tells me. 
> 
> We gave all of our firewood to our elderly neighbors. My son delivered it before we left for vacation. They pay him to split, deliver and stack with banana bread. I told him I'm going to make him a will work for food sign.


I have read your posts, don't they have CPS around your neighborhood?

----------


## Suzanimal

> I have read your posts, don't they have CPS around your neighborhood?


Apparently not, thank God.

----------


## Anti Federalist

> Mr Animal's red chainsaw has been a good one. His neon green one sucked, btw.


Yellow - McCulloch

Craftsman - Black/Red/Yellow/Gray depending on model

Homelite - Reddish/Orange

Johnsered - Red

Husquavarna - Red

Echo - White/Orange

Stihl (the best, imo) - White/Orange

----------


## Anti Federalist

> Husqvarna is a good brand.
> Jonsered and Poulan are owned by them as well.. I used the Poulan 18" and they took the abuse.


They made some bad ass dirt bikes back in the day as well.

The badge is still out there, but the Germans, BMW I think, bought them out years ago.

Like so many precision manufacturers, they got started making guns.

----------


## luctor-et-emergo

> I was going to say, do your self a huge favor and only use stuff like this in it and not auto gas mixed with oil:
> 
> http://www.vp-sef.com/index.php/why-vp-sef
> 
> Then I remembered you are in Europe and not having to deal with the garbage that is called gasoline and diesel fuel, and the damage it does to small engines, like we are here in the land of the free, due to Uncle Sucker's _fatwas_.


Nah, I have specific fuel for the thing, stuff that doesn't go bad after months of no usage. Not cheap though.

----------


## presence

> Then I remembered you are in Europe and not having to deal with the garbage that is called gasoline and diesel fuel, and the damage it does to small engines, like we are here in the land of the free, due to Uncle Sucker's _fatwas_.


I live in logging country.   The local gas station sells 91 ethanol free.  There are stations all over the country... you just have to know where to look, see:

http://www.pure-gas.org/

----------


## presence



----------


## oyarde

I will be getting started here in about 4 weeks or so

----------


## presence

so i built a klyv

https://www.google.com/search?q=klyv...lyv+firewood&*

pretty badass mashup between a 1.5 ton engine lift and mk2/3 vw jetta rear twist beam (so can pull like trailer) 
+ vw rear springs; some elevator weights and a traditional hydro log splitter wedge

chopped moar wood in one session than ever before!

that was 5 days ago

arm still in sling

tricep $#@!ed at elbow; could be bad

pro tip

klyv good for straight grain; big knots = injury to self before klyv

ps...typing lefty sucks

----------


## phill4paul

> so i built a klyv
> 
> pretty badass mashup between a 1.5 ton engine lift and mk2/3 vw jetta rear twist beam (so can pull like trailer) 
> + vw rear springs; some elevator weights and a traditional hydro log splitter wedge
> 
> chopped moar wood in one session than ever before!
> 
> that was 5 days ago
> 
> ...


  Ouch. Take it easy and hope you heal quick.

----------


## presence

3 weeks



 righty is still pretty much $#@!ed

sub gallon of water toting ability

haven't seen a doc but all symptoms of forearm and backarm tennis elbow / golf elbow / tricep medial head strain / bicep strain / forearm strain / right $#@!ing elbow $#@!ed etal

rt arm = weak and sore

attitude has steadily progressed to pretty $#@!ing pissy; requires bit of restraint not to be an $#@! to wife and youngin

can't find happy position to sleep in.  pretty steady pain of some sort through the day, not bad but steady

weather has been great.  all kinds of productive $#@! I could be doing.

but not.  

generally a mal productive ass sitting food waster

then I wander... look at all this $#@! I could be doing 

but not

doing the heat, wrist exercises like the web says; wonder if jerking off helps?

dosing on the vitamin C, zinc, l-lysine, calcium, magnesium like the web says

can't do the glaucosamine / chondroitin or however the $#@! u spelt it because allergies

can work a mouse, but keep a flattened roll of toilet paper under teh elbow

typing still kinda sucks; web says "may not be good for me" $#@! those assenholes

getting close to productive season... I usually start driving nails, twisting wires, cranking pipes around about this time of year

drive nail ability = 0

huge spring garden plans...



yeah not so much


I built this $#@!ing klyv because I got shoulder impingement last year from beating on firewood with a maul

$#@!

mrs says I need to beef up on my patience

$#@!

frustrated



but hey... at least there's vodka








> *Lateral and Medial Epicondylitis*_
> 
> []
> If your symptoms do not respond after six to twelve months of nonsurgical treatments_


http://www.summitortho.com/services/...epicondylitis/




forecast says foot of snow on tuesday

----------


## phill4paul

> 3 weeks
> 
> 
> 
>  righty is still pretty much $#@!ed
> 
> sub gallon of water toting ability
> 
> haven't seen a doc but all symptoms of forearm and backarm tennis elbow / golf elbow / tricep medial head strain / bicep strain / forearm strain / right $#@!ing elbow $#@!ed etal
> ...


  Damn, sorry to hear that it's still tit's up. I just threw my back out today tilling a garden. I took a half a hydrocodone and I never like to take that $#@!. Damn if getting old don't suck. Sometimes.

----------


## Anti Federalist

> Damn, sorry to hear that it's still tit's up. I just threw my back out today tilling a garden. I took a half a hydrocodone and I never like to take that $#@!. Damn if getting old don't suck. Sometimes.


It's better than the alternative I suppose.

I hurt in places I didn't even know existed.

----------


## phill4paul

> It's better than the alternative I suppose.
> 
> I hurt in places I didn't even know existed.


   Just a bad day altogether. Tilled a clients garden and felt back pain when I went to clear underbrush. So  I figured I'd switch up and pressure wash the drive way. Damn pump went out on washer. Loaded up and by the time I got home I was wracked. Took Meloxicam for inflammation, ate a budder cookie and took half a hydro. Alternated heat and cold every 15 mins. for hours. Thanks goodness the lil' lady is such a good nurse. Now that it's morning I'm beginning to think it ain't a muscle. $#@!. On top of that the equipment that I was unable to load just got rained on in the morning dark. Double $#@!. 
  Still, I'm not trying to one up presence. Unless this $#@! goes on for 3 weeks.

----------


## JK/SEA

i get my firewood delivered. 2.5 cords chopped for 450 bucks...

i've burned through 5 cords so far this year....only 4 last year total....still have a few more months of burning to go, although i am now slowing down on trips to the shed.

----------


## presence

> forecast says foot of snow on tuesday


so... that worked out to 34"

5-8 more on the way

$#@! a bunch of white $#@! right now

84' ariens 1032 w/ new 12hp snow king handled it tho 

back in ace bandage suckin the tylenol teet typin lefty

righty is grade A $#@!ed


pinky wanting the numb; think ulnar nerve entrapment
http://orthoinfo.aaos.org/topic.cfm?topic=a00069

hurts like a bitch, stays straight to stay happy, $#@! is gettin old




> Ouch. Take it easy and hope you heal quick.


mrs says I'm too thick headed for healin; I had her 300' driveway cleared 3 times through the blizzard tho

_I throwed out my shoulder but I won her that teddy bear_

----------


## Anti Federalist

> mrs says I'm too thick headed for healin; I had her 300' driveway cleared 3 times through the blizzard tho
> 
> _I throwed out my shoulder but I won her that teddy bear_


Watch yourself brother.

They tend to throw us out when we're no good for work anymore.

Seriously, hope you're healing up.

----------


## axiomata

Just an amateur fire pit wood burner but I had fun splitting some rounds that fell on a co-workers garage last year. The old hand me down double sided splitting axe was a bit of a chore getting the large rounds started and I needed something like a sledgehammer for another project so I picked up this toy.



Now just need to find a source for this year's rounds since I shouldn't count on any more trees falling on garages.

----------


## presence

> Watch yourself brother.
> 
> They tend to throw us out when we're no good for work anymore.
> 
> Seriously, hope you're healing up.


About 50 days later and I'm about 90-95%  back to having an elbow again.   Just started using it this past few days.   I can do the basics again; tighten pipes, tap on a few nails, twist wires... all pretty good; lil pinch here and there; certainly not driving framing nails any time soon.  That took way too long to shake off and was pretty miserable for at least 30 days.   Pro tip: always respect the  connective $#@!s in yer elbows; don't want to $#@! with them.  This might just be the year I give in on some of my bull headed maul splitting ways and move on to a hydraulic splitter.   Sure as $#@! though... soon as I'm back to having an elbow... mrs has the honey do list posted on the living room wall again.

----------


## Anti Federalist

> About 50 days later and I'm about 90-95%  back to having an elbow again.   Just started using it this past few days.   I can do the basics again; tighten pipes, tap on a few nails, twist wires... all pretty good; lil pinch here and there; certainly not driving framing nails any time soon.  That took way too long to shake off and was pretty miserable for at least 30 days.   Pro tip: always respect the  connective $#@!s in yer elbows; don't want to $#@! with them.  This might just be the year I give in on some of my bull headed maul splitting ways and move on to a hydraulic splitter.   Sure as $#@! though... soon as I'm back to having an elbow... mrs has the honey do list posted on the living room wall again.


Glad to hear you are feeling better...take it slow.

I'll put Mrs AF on this thread, see what she has in her herb arsenal that may help ease the pain and help the healing and maybe prevent it in the future.

----------


## donnay

Get some Arnica Montana gel or lotion it helps inflammation and pain.  Speaking of inflammation Turmeric is an excellent supplement for inflammation (1700mgs daily).  *Caution:  If you have gallbladder disease should avoid using turmeric.

Magnesium chloride is great too.  You can take 1/2 c. H20 and 1/2 c. magnesium chloride flakes in a pot on medium heat until it dissolves and then you can put it in a spray bottle and spray it to the injured area.

You can also make a Capsaicin paste with coconut oil and rub it in the area that is tender.  (1 tbsp Cheyenne to 1 tbsp of Coconut oil.)

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