# Lifestyles & Discussion > Personal Security & Defense >  How to Build an AR-15

## ghengis86

This thread came into existence from a previous thread (http://www.ronpaulforums.com/showthread.php?t=170996).  I was debating on if I should buy an AR on credit b/c i didn't have the cash on hand.  Someone suggested I build/assemble my own for about half the price, so I thought, why not.  I picked up a stipped lower at a local gun show and ordered a lower parts kit (which i finally got this week).  I haven't decided on the upper yet (5.56 or 5.45) but i thought I'd get going posting some pics and tips.

First, I used these to sites exclusively when putting together my lower:
http://www.ar15.com/content/guides/assembly/lower/
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782

Second, you really don't need any special tools.  I used a cheap screwdriver set, a hammer and some locking pliers and maybe some needle nose pliers.  You'll also need some electricians tape and masking tape to protect your receiver from scratching during assembly. Here's what I used:


Here's the parts kit list and my layout of parts.  


And here's my stipped lower ready to go

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## ghengis86

I started with the magazine catch.  Just drop it in:


Flip the receiver over and insert the spring over the catch:


Push the mag release button on and thread it till its flush with the receiver.  be careful not to tighten too hard, which will scratch the receiver.  I didn't do the final tightening of the button until i had more put together, but now is as good a time as any. push the mag release button into the receiver with a cheap screw dirver and on the other side of the receiver, spin the latch a few times and reseat it.  its all personal preference as to how far you want the button sticking out, but you at least need to have the base of the button seated inside the cut out on the receiver.  here's how mine looked when i was satisfied:

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## ghengis86

Next up: Bolt catch.  


I used the locking pliers method so i put some painters masking tape on the receiver (its all i had laying around).  Also, i did use some lube to help slide the roll pin in.  first, frop the spring into place.


next put the detent in;


i then placed the roll pin into the right side hole.  you can get the first mm or so into the hole by hand (that's what she said), since the roll pin is tapered ever so slightly on either end.  be careful not to bump the receiver too hard or it will fall out.  


next, place the bolt catch into the grove and align the bolt catch hole with the roll pin.  I actually pressed the roll pin in using the locking pliers until it just about came through the first hole.  then i installed the bolt catch and pressed it the rest of the way in:

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## ghengis86

Next up; front pivot pin.  This was a bitch until I figured out that i needed to make sure the hole for the spring was thoroughly cleaned out.  As you can see from this pic, this is how far it went in to begin with:


I took one of my small screwdrivers and rammed it down a couple times.  I could hear and feel the small pits of aluminum left over from the milling/drilling process.  this is how far the spring went in after i cleaned the hole.


now this is the only tricky part of the assembly to be careful not launch the spring across the room.  have a small flat head screwdriver close at hand as well as the actual pivot pin.  use the detent to compress the spring into the hole.  I just used my finger.  Then, carefully slide your screwdriver in between your finger and the detent, holding the detent/spring in place now with the screwdriver.  Next, grab the pivot pin and start it into the hole.  as you slide the pivot pin in, pull your screwdriver out and the detent will snap into place on the pivot pin.  


That's the hardest part!  Grab yourself one of these and get ready to finish up;

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## ghengis86

trigger gaurd; very easy/simple, but you have to be careful not to break the ears off when you're pressing the roll pin into position.  I used the vise grip method here too and i only pressed when the trigger guard was in between the ears.  snap the trigger gaurd into pisition (it only goes in one way with a spring loaded detent).


again, i was able to get the roll pin in with hand presssure to start it (handle it carefully or it will fall out) and begin pressing the pin into the holes.  you will have to align the trigger guard with the pin.


press it into place a little at a time and you're done.

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## ghengis86

place the trigger spring on the trigger and insert the selector spring into the cutout.  


place the trigger into the receiver and place the selector on the trigger with the cut out on the selector set above the selector spring.


take a sip of your drink b/c this step takes patience and wiggling; not difficult but frustrating because of the two springs involved with compressing everything just enough, but not too much.  align all the holes of the selector and trigger with one hand and wiggle the trigger pin through with the other.  I started on the left side and inserted the longer, unmarked side of the pin in first.  sorry, forgot to take a pic of this, but it requires two hands and my wife was ticked i was playing with my gun and not her.

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## ghengis86

next put the hammer spring on the hammer:


place the hammer into the receiver as shown.  be careful to make sure the long ends of the hammer spring rest on the trigger pin.  


again, take another sip of your drink, compress the hammer spring until the holes are aligned and press the hammer pin into position; it will take some wiggling while compressing the spring.  again, i went from the left side, with the long unmarked end of the pin first.  this is also the only step where I needed my hammer.  the pin went almost all the way in, but wouldn't got the last few mm.  one gentle tap with the hammer and that was that.

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## ghengis86

you can check to make sure your trigger works properly, but be careful not to let the hammer hit the bolt catch; it can damage the hammer and holt catch.  I just checked for proper operation by keeping my thumb in contact with the hammer each time i pulled the trigger.


cock the hammer back and slide in the safety/fire selector.


then insert the detent into the hole on the other side.  

the left side of the safety/fire selector had to be held off the receiver by a mm or so for the detent to hit correctly.  it did not sit flush for me.


I actually placed the selector spring into the handle grip and then made sure to insert it into the detent hole on the receiver.  



put the lock washer on the grip screw, screw the grip into the receiver and that's it!

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## ghengis86

you should have about half of your drink left.  pick up the glass and marvel at your handiwork!



this took me approximately 45 minutes, mainly because my computer was in another room and i kept running back and forth to make sure i had things correct.  this was very easy.  I'll add pics for the stock when i get it.  same with the upper.  any suggestions, comments, tricks, tips and techniques are welcomed.  i can go back and edit if i need be on my steps.

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## Madcat455

What do you figure total cost will be, for the completed rifle??  I've been considering this option.. but if the savings isn't that much... I'd just buy one pre-assembled.


Did you go with any "special" parts??  Or did you just stick with basic "production" parts?

Thanks.. looking good!!-

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## ghengis86

so far, the receiver was $180 and the LRPK was $55.  So i'm in it for a total of $235.  Before this shortage, stripped lowers were ~$120 i guess.  I can get a 6 position collapsible stock at my gun store for about $45, but I'm checking on gunbroker.com for something cheaper.  I can get a new in 5.45 for ~$500 so that would put the total cost at $780.  if i go with 5.56, I can pick one up for $400 for a total of ~$680.  The money saved will pay for at least a case of 1,000rds of ammo, so I figure if I put it together myself, i get a free case of bullets as opposed to being able to afford the gun and no bullets!

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## ghengis86

oh, and not special parts yet.  i may get a match trigger in the future, but for now i just want something that works.

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## amy31416

I vote for you as RPF'er of the day, and even of the month.

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## Doktor_Jeep

Out Farking Standing!

The most expensive part, I think, would be the upper receiver. They used to cost around $450, but it appears that prices are doubling.

Now, if you can turn your own barrels and post that I will take you home and let you date my sister.

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## Kalifornia

I have a 5.56 multi lower waiting for parts, but was hoping to buy from the same mfg as the lower (dpms) for consistency.  DPMS is backlogged 4-6 months, so I may have to piece this thing together patchwork.

whered you get the lower kit from?

also, anyone know where I can find an Armalite or DPMS AR-10 stripped lower near seattle for under 300 bucks?

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## ghengis86

> I have a 5.56 multi lower waiting for parts, but was hoping to buy from the same mfg as the lower (dpms) for consistency.  DPMS is backlogged 4-6 months, so I may have to piece this thing together patchwork.
> 
> whered you get the lower kit from?
> 
> also, anyone know where I can find an Armalite or DPMS AR-10 stripped lower near seattle for under 300 bucks?


I got my lower parts kit from rguns.net for $55 each from DPMS.  I ordered them 12/8/08 and just received them monday.  i bought three and sold one on gunbroker.com already for $110.

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## Kalifornia

> I got my lower parts kit from rguns.net for $55 each from DPMS.  I ordered them 12/8/08 and just received them monday.  i bought three and sold one on gunbroker.com already for $110.



craziness.  I guess Ill be waiting a while.  I refuse to pay gouge pricing, particularly since the only thing that wont be manufactured if they reinstate the ban is the stripped lowers.  Which of course, is why Im looking for an affordble .308 lower

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## bg1654

I'd be interested on information about a reasonably priced DPMS .308 lower as well, but in the SW ohio/indiana/kentucky area.

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## ghengis86

> craziness.  I guess Ill be waiting a while.  I refuse to pay gouge pricing, particularly since the only thing that wont be manufactured if they reinstate the ban is the stripped lowers.  Which of course, is why Im looking for an affordble .308 lower


good idea.  but remember, there's no such thing as price gouging.  we live in a world of scarcity.  high prices indicate a low supply and high demand and signal producers to add supply to the market.  it also signals consumers to re-evaluate their needs verus consumption.  gas stations weren't allowed to raise their prices in the south this summer and they ran out of gas.  there wasn't enough profit margin available for companies in other states to ship gas into the short states, so everybody suffered.  there was no incentive to produce more gas or at least ship available supplies to where it was needed.  

likewise, if prices weren't allowed to rise on stripped lower receivers, there would be no incentive for any producer to increase their output of stripped lowers.  but, since lowers are going for a premium and profit margin on them has increased significantly, why wouldn't a producer churn out as many as possible to take advantage of the high price? as the supply gets caught up with demand, prices will return to a more normal level as consumers can be more descriminating in what they pay for an item that has returned to abundance (as you are doing).

the only moneky wrench in this is that if the AWB makes it difficult for one to obtain the rest of the gun.  having 10 stirpped lowers means nothing if you can't have anything to pin to the top!  then the prices for uppers will really skyrocket.

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## ghengis86

> I vote for you as RPF'er of the day, and even of the month.





> Out Farking Standing!
> 
> The most expensive part, I think, would be the upper receiver. They used to cost around $450, but it appears that prices are doubling.
> 
> Now, if you can turn your own barrels and post that I will take you home and let you date my sister.


thanks gents.  depends on what your sister looks like...

prices are getting ridiculous though

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## Kalifornia

> good idea.  but remember, there's no such thing as price gouging.  we live in a world of scarcity.  high prices indicate a low supply and high demand and signal producers to add supply to the market.  it also signals consumers to re-evaluate their needs verus consumption.  gas stations weren't allowed to raise their prices in the south this summer and they ran out of gas.  there wasn't enough profit margin available for companies in other states to ship gas into the short states, so everybody suffered.  there was no incentive to produce more gas or at least ship available supplies to where it was needed.  
> 
> likewise, if prices weren't allowed to rise on stripped lower receivers, there would be no incentive for any producer to increase their output of stripped lowers.  but, since lowers are going for a premium and profit margin on them has increased significantly, why wouldn't a producer churn out as many as possible to take advantage of the high price? as the supply gets caught up with demand, prices will return to a more normal level as consumers can be more descriminating in what they pay for an item that has returned to abundance (as you are doing).
> 
> the only moneky wrench in this is that if the AWB makes it difficult for one to obtain the rest of the gun.  having 10 stirpped lowers means nothing if you can't have anything to pin to the top!  then the prices for uppers will really skyrocket.


unless they change the law significantly, the stripped lower IS the rifle.  the rest is just parts. 

I agree that scarcity and demand drives pricing, but the smart demander doesnt fall prey.  My money is scarce as well.

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## Dieseler

Congrats on the rifle man.

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## ghengis86

> *unless they change the law significantly, the stripped lower IS the rifle*.  the rest is just parts. 
> 
> I agree that scarcity and demand drives pricing, *but the smart demander doesnt fall prey.  My money is scarce as well*.


good points!

but couldn't they expand the import ban on rifle parts for rifles that are illegal to domestic rifles as well?  that might be something to look for in the next AWB.

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## eOs

Good fraggin' job Ghengis, this thread is going to become very useful for me in the near future. Keep us posted.

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## danberkeley

Awsomeness.

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## Madcat455

Some1 should sticky this thread.....  Hate to see it get buried after a week.

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## Pericles

> I vote for you as RPF'er of the day, and even of the month.


+1

Let this be an encouragement to everyone. Additionally, you know how to replace a part should that be required.

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## ghengis86

> +1
> 
> Let this be an encouragement to *everyone*. Additionally, you know how to replace a part should that be required.


that's it right there; if I can do this, anyone can.  all the small parts laying out in front of you can look daunting, but it is seriously easy.  

I have a 6 position stock I picked up from cableas ($65) and i put it on last night.  but I just bought a 4 position stock on gunbroker.com for $35 last night, so I'm going to return the other one.   complete uppers are extremely hard to find right now (12-16 week backorders) and they're moving up in price too ~$600.  I'll get pics of the stock as soon as I can.

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## Chosen

Ghengis, thanks for the thread. 

I would like to recommend something for you before you get an upper receiver. If you are to stay with 5.56 make sure you get a barrel which has a 1:7 twist. The reason for this is that it will allow you to use bigger grained ammo like 77grain MK262 and variants. Otherwise if you obtain the very common 1:9 twist rate on your barrel you will be relegated to 55 grain and maybe 60grain. But I think you will like the lethality of the larger grain. The 1:9 twists rate makes the larger grain bullets inaccurate and unstable.

16" barrel of course.

If you go with a 6.8spc upper, consider the 1:11 twist rate or definitely look for:



> Minimum configuration:  Spec II Chamber, 1x10 twist, 6-groove barrel.
> 
> Best configuration:  Spec II Chamber, 1x11 twist, 4-groove barrel (or slower twist rate)


 ...with your upper. This will allow you to shoot combat load 110 grain ammo. 

Congratulations. Please post more pics, nothing beats gun pr0n in my opinion.

AR15 As a Right Of Passage

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## Chosen

I think to honor Ghengis other RP supporters should build AR's.

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## Pericles

> Ghengis, thanks for the thread. 
> 
> I would like to recommend something for you before you get an upper receiver. If you are to stay with 5.56 make sure you get a barrel which has a 1:7 twist. The reason for this is that it will allow you to use bigger grained ammo like 77grain MK262 and variants. Otherwise if you obtain the very common 1:9 twist rate on your barrel you will be relegated to 55 grain and maybe 60grain. But I think you will like the lethality of the larger grain. The 1:9 twists rate makes the larger grain bullets inaccurate and unstable.
> 
> 16" barrel of course.
> 
> If you go with a 6.8spc upper, consider the 1:11 twist rate or definitely look for:
>  ...with your upper. This will allow you to shoot combat load 110 grain ammo. 
> 
> ...


The 1:7 twist requirement was for the M856 tracer, but I believe in it for all A2s in order to get best accuracy from M855 ball, and you can also shoot M193 ball from it as well, but will overspin at ranges beyond 250m.

The A1s have a 1:12 twist for the M193 ball. In any case I am an advocate of the 20" barrel for greater velocity and therefore, more "punch" at range. The Army's ballistic theory is based on that higher velocity to achieve lethality, the M4 carbine with the 16" barrel is for anticipated defensive engagements of less than 200m - not for hunting land pirates at range.

The 1:8 and 1:9 barrels are compromises, which don't get the best from either type of ammunition, and I only build military spec stuff - I figure if it is good enough for the Army, it is good enough for my purposes.

Put away the M855 and M193 for combat, and use the cheaper stuff to practice.

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## Kalifornia

Okay, so what is the consensus on a good overall m4 upper then.  Obviously something chrome lined and rated for 5.56.  16 or 20"?, 1 in 9 or 1 in 7? 

Realistically the average M4 owner is going to keep the weapon on hand to defend his home, take it to the range, and pick it up as his first tool if rule of law ever dissolves.  You want it to take the most common ammo available, and be as versatile as possible.  

Im thinking flat top with BUIS, a red dot optic, collapsible stock....

Im tempted to buy the standard chrome lined 16" 1 in 9, but Im willing to look at something else if it is more versatile.  I cant imagine ever PLANNING on using a carbine at ranges over 200M. But if I can keep home defense in mind as the primary mission, while expanding scope to longer ranges, Im willing to consider the alternatives.

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## Pericles

I'd suggest 1:7 if going for the 16" barrel as you are using the faster twist to try to compensate for the shorter than originally designed barrel.

Gunnyfreedom had all of the stats on the effects of twist, ammunition type, and barrel length in an old thread in this forum (around Sept. '08) - title about M1A vs. AR15 or some such.

Here it is:

http://www.ronpaulforums.com/showthr...=148704&page=2

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## hypnagogue

I've been mulling the purchase of an AR as well. I was hearing that building a stripped lower was generally too much of a pain, but I think you may have convinced me otherwise.

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## Chosen

> The 1:7 twist requirement was for the M856 tracer, but I believe in it for all A2s in order to get best accuracy from M855 ball, and you can also shoot M193 ball from it as well, but will overspin at ranges beyond 250m.
> 
> The A1s have a 1:12 twist for the M193 ball. In any case I am an advocate of the 20" barrel for greater velocity and therefore, more "punch" at range. The Army's ballistic theory is based on that higher velocity to achieve lethality, the M4 carbine with the 16" barrel is for anticipated defensive engagements of less than 200m - not for hunting land pirates at range.
> 
> The 1:8 and 1:9 barrels are compromises, which don't get the best from either type of ammunition, and I only build military spec stuff - I figure if it is good enough for the Army, it is good enough for my purposes.
> 
> Put away the M855 and M193 for combat, and use the cheaper stuff to practice.


I think you mean a 1:6 is what is needed for tracer, the 1:7 was a compromise. 

But the main purpose is for larger grain 75 to 77grain rounds. 

The best description of twists and ammo is an old post from another forum. This has also been circulated around via email and in newsgroups:




> Bullets must have enough spin (RPM) when leaving the bore in order to fly true. Remember bullets begin to slow down (in RPM and velocity) from the moment they leave the bore so they must have enough spin from the start so that they remain spinning enough to fly true over the course of their trajectory otherwise if they arent spinning enough they will start to wobble off course which can result in a complete miss. (Remember misses are bad.)
> 
> Barrel twist rates are calculated using the caliber of the projectile and the length of the projectile. Most think in terms of weight of the projectile that determines twist rate but it is really the length. And in general terms the longer the bullet given the same caliber the more it will weigh but the truth is you could have two bullets that weigh the exact same amount but if one has an aluminum core it will be longer than the one with a lead core so the lighter bullet BECAUSE it is longer will require a tighter twist rate than the heavier/shorter one will.
> 
> The M16 started off with a 1x14 twist which is enough to shoot 55 grain bullets as long as the temperature of the air was above freezing. If the temp was below freezing the air density was such that the 1x14 twist was too slow and the bullet lost its spin too fast resulting in misses.
> 
> So the military changed the rate to 1x12 which solved the problem.
> 
> Then comes along the SS109/M855 62 grain round which since it is a longer bullet (because it is heavier) requires a 1x10 to stabilize. Problem was the tracer ammo M856 is even longer than the ball round of the SS109/M855 ammo cause they packed it with enough tracer compound so the bullet would trace all the way out to 800 meters which it almost twice as far as the older tracer ammo that burnt out at around 450 meters. Consequently this newer tracer ammo is a LONG bullet and requires a 1x6 twist rate. So the military compromised on a 1x7 twist rate for the new ammo.
> ...



For ammo the goal would be to obtain and shoot this:
http://www.gunsandammomag.com/cs/Sat...gs=pagenum%3D1

I have a 1/2 case white boxed, it is well stored.

The 77gr Sierra Match King will bring the AR's performance to it's peak in 5.56 land. You cannot take advantage of this round with a 1:9 twist, but a 1:7 twist will adequately fire the 55grain bulk ammo.

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## Chosen

> I've been mulling the purchase of an AR as well. I was hearing that building a stripped lower was generally too much of a pain, but I think you may have convinced me otherwise.


Best how to video:
http://www.lifelibertyetc.com/RangeB...ippedLower.wmv

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## Kalifornia

> I think you mean a 1:6 is what is needed for tracer, the 1:7 was a compromise. 
> 
> But the main purpose is for larger grain 75 to 77grain rounds. 
> 
> The best description of twists and ammo is an old post from another forum. This has also been circulated around via email and in newsgroups:
> 
> For ammo the goal would be to obtain and shoot this:
> http://www.gunsandammomag.com/cs/Sat...gs=pagenum%3D1
> 
> ...



excellent information.  that definitely solves the twist rate question.

Now.  Barrel length.  I know how much increased mobility I gain with a 16" Barrel.  Assuming a 1 in 7 twist.  How much effective range am I giving up by dropping from 20" to 16"?

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## Chosen

With an AR what you are really concerned with is fragmentation. That is to say, if you have the right amount of Feet Per Second bullet speed. When this drops too low, the bullet will not fragment correctly. This is why some of the pistol AR's are more of a novelty than anything, the really short barrel length's (SBR) 10.5" etc effectively become 22 caliber rifles. This is because of the original Eugene Stoner design. He knew that 20" barrel would give the round the proper amount of burn time to reach lethality. 

A rule of thumb is that between a 20" and 16" barrel you will lose nearly 30fps per inch. Let's take a MK262 77grain Sierra Match King Round for example. Coming out of a 16" barrel, 1:7 twist, you would probably get nearly 2720fps. This is great because you will have proper fragmentation and penetration. The 77grain and 75grain are great terminal ballistics performers. 

There is some room here within a few fps, but the fragmentation threshold for a 77grain and a 75 grain, to be on the Conservative side is around 2250fps. Meaning, if it is lower than that it will not fragment properly. If you shoot the smaller 55grain XM-193 from a 16" barrel, 1:7 twist, you can get around 3250 fps near the barrel. That's pretty fast. Of course it will be even faster with a 20".

A 20" barrel will of course always be sufficient at any range. But the 16" has the needed lethality and is a good all around choice, just less effective range. Most combat takes place closer than 300 meters, the 16 is well within this with 1:7. Not a bad compromise for a loss of 4".

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## Uriel999

This thread deserves a sticky. Just sayin...

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## Chosen

> This thread deserves a sticky. Just sayin...


Uriel you building an AR? If not you should.

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## devil21

nm del

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## Kalifornia

> Nice thread.  Im looking into it myself.  This thread as well as other online resources show that it's not as difficult as one would assume it to be.
> 
> Locating a decent deal on a lower from a local private seller is turning out to be a pain though.  Im always missing the ads before they get snapped up.


the good news is that once you find a stripped lower, the rest can be done from the comfort of your living room.

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## Chosen

Did you notice that stripped lowers have gone up quite a bit?

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## Gideon

What is NOT to like about this thread?

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## devil21

nm del

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## Kalifornia

> Looks like Ive found a new mated stripped upper and lower in my area!  Whoo hoo!  Im still trying to wrap my head around what exactly is needed for the upper but Im getting a grasp on it.  Bolt carrier assemblies appear quite rare these days.  Im looking forward to ghenghis building his upper for us to see


be forewarned.  the upper is where all the serious mechanics goes on.  ideally a first timer should buy a complete upper unit all at once.

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## ghengis86

> be forewarned.  the upper is where all the serious mechanics goes on.  ideally a first timer should buy a complete upper unit all at once.


well, thanks for the warning.  i've got a stripped upper coming this week so i'll get pics of that up too.  hopefully if i screw something up, you all can show me what i did wrong.

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## Kalifornia

> well, thanks for the warning.  i've got a stripped upper coming this week so i'll get pics of that up too.  hopefully if i screw something up, you all can show me what i did wrong.


Maybe I can learn though you that it isn't such a big deal.  From what I can tell, the big danger is that there are minor differences between manufacturers in the way they build product, and the inner workings of the uppers arent always 100% interworkable between builders.  Who made the upper, btw?

I wish I was brave enough to buy individual upper parts, since I cant scrap up 600 bucks all at once right now...  


I did, however, find someone with Pmags and have 13 en route.

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## newbitech

I've never owned a gun, never liked them since being shot when I was 16.

Let's say I decided to build a weapon like this.  What would I need to do as far as paper work and registration, licensing etc, to protect myself from the beaurecrats? 

also, this is a nice link.
Build it yourself  at http://www.ar15.com/forums/forum.html?b=3&f=4

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## ghengis86

> I've never owned a gun, never liked them since being shot when I was 16.
> 
> Let's say I decided to build a weapon like this.  What would I need to do as far as paper work and registration, licensing etc, to protect myself from the beaurecrats? 
> 
> also, this is a nice link.
> Build it yourself  at http://www.ar15.com/forums/forum.html?b=3&f=4


the stripped lower receiver is the only part of the gun with a serial number and is the only part covered by any gubmint registrations, etc.  depending on your state, if you buy it from an individual, there is no need to fill out any paperwork.  only when buying it from a federally licensed firearms dealer do you need to have an FBI background check peroformed before purchasing.

all other parts do not require anything more than cash to buy.

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## ghengis86

alright, to continue; six position collapsible stock.  


Insert rear takedown pin with recess facing back towards the rear of the stock.


Then, insert the detent from the rear of the receiver.  


Then insert the takedown spring:


from now on you will need to be careful and hold in the takedown pin with your finger until you get the stock completely on.  The plate forward of the castle nut will keep pressure on it once it get everything screwed together.

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## ghengis86

here's how i held everything while i put stock on and buffer spring and detent.  I just kept my middle finger on the takedown pin and made sure not to tilt the receiver rearward to the spring and detent won't fall out.  also, back off the castle nut pretty far so the backing plate doesn't hit the takedown pin spring as you screw it on. Thread it on a few turns


once you've got the stock/buffer tube on a few turns, inserts the buffer spring into the recess.


Then insert the buffer detent over the spring


And screw teh stock/buffer tube until its right up next to the beffer detent:

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## ghengis86

push the buffer detent down with on finger, and turn the stock/buffer tube until it sits over the base fo the buffer detent, but does not touch the top of the buffer detent.  notice the cut-out on the stock/buffer tube as it aligns with the detent.  there should be no binding of the movement of the buffer detent.


This is how far into the receiver my stock/buffer tube went.


hold the backing plate up against the rear of the receiver, compressing the takedown spring and screw the castle nut hand tight.  you'll need to tighten the nut down with a special wrench (i've got one on order; even they are hard to get!)

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## ghengis86

insert the buffer tube spring into the stock.  make sure the hammer is cocked back to make this easier.


insert the retainer and compress it into the buffer tube housing with one of the cutouts on the retainer facing down towards the buffer detent.  here you'll have to push the buffer retainer down ever so slightly while inserting the retainer.  it will snap into place real easy.  you can then rotate the retainer so that the cutout doesn't face the detent and that the full edge of the retainer meets the detent.


and that's it!

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## ghengis86

and a little preview of what's next

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## Kalifornia

wow, coming along great!

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## Chosen

> I did, however, find someone with Pmags and have 13 en route.


Those are like gold now. If you contact Magpul directly they tell you up to a 12 month wait.

Ghengis nice pics.


I forgot who was mentioning this. But it is good to get a bolt carrier group from the same folks who make the upper. Also note that sometime when you buy a stripped upper, it is truly stripped! No forward assist or anything. Sometimes stripped uppers do not have m4 style feedramps, check if you are interested in those.

If you mix and match an upper with bolt carrier. You should always check the headspace. Some would say to do this anyway. You could use the go no-go gauges. I have the Forster ones:
http://www.lockstock.com/prodinfo.asp?number=FRHG0223G




> Unsupported brass in an action with excessive headspace may rupture, allowing gas to blow rearward like a rocket exhaust. The HEADSPACE GAGE is designed to protect your firearms from unnecessary damage and you the shooter, from possible injury by showing whether or not the 'headspace' of an action is within tolerance. Essentially, headspace is the distance between the face of the breech and the base of the cartridge when the action is closed. Accuracy and safety is threatened when there is excessive headspace. Forster Headspace Gages are made with painstaking care to insure you accurate testing of the chamber. Each caliber Gage comes in 'GO', 'NO GO', and 'FIELD'. If an actions will not accept a 'Go' Gage it will not accept cartridge cases of maximum length. If it accepts a 'No Go' Gage, the action may have excessive headspace. If the actions accepts a 'Field' Gage, it should not be fired..


There are many excellent gauges besides Forster of course. I just put that there because it is a good summary of why a gauge would be needed. Mostly factory matched and new milspec s generally don't have a problem.

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## Pennsylvania

ghengis dude you're the man.

BTW, was that bourbon in that glass?

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## ghengis86

> ghengis dude you're the man.
> 
> BTW, was that bourbon in that glass?


whiskey my friend

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## Athan

Bump. Why isn't this stickied?

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## Chosen

> Bump. Why isn't this stickied?


Agreed.

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## torchbearer

I consider this porn.

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## Chosen

> I consider this porn.


Ha ha.

Here's some more:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnQTOzR5AS0

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## ghengis86

just an update: barrel should be here in the next couple days (just got a notice that it shipped) and bolt should be here in a day or two.  still trying to get a charging handle of all things...

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## Chosen

Have you been ordering from Brownells?

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## devil21

nm del

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## LiveToWin

How much do all the parts cost to make an AR-15? Im buying a rifle soon, but Im starting to think I want something better than an M91/30.

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## devil21

nm del

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## ksuguy

I really hated doing that front pivot pin when I did mine.  If I ever do it again, I'm just going to spend the extra $40 and get one with the internals already in there.

Getting that stupid thing in there made building an FAL easy by comparison.

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## devil21

nm del

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## ksuguy

Oh I did that.   Tried the special tool too.  Just ended up losing a lot of springs and pins.  I eventually had to cut a couple coils off the end of the spring before it would go in there.  I think my lower might have been slightly out of spec or something with the hole not drilled deep enough.

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## Pericles

> Everyone should be building these things!


Agreed - And this thread should be a sticky.

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## ghengis86

> Oh I did that.   Tried the special tool too.  Just ended up losing a lot of springs and pins.  I eventually had to cut a couple coils off the end of the spring before it would go in there.  I think my lower might have been slightly out of spec or something with the hole not drilled deep enough.


i had the same problem too until i made sure the hole was cleaned out from milling.  there was some metal shavings in the hole which prevented the spring from being fully inserted.  once i cleaned it out with a small screwdriver, it didn't have to be compressed as much and it all snapped in easily.

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## JoshLowry

Bumps tend to get more views and this is an active topic.  I'll sticky it when ghengis finishes this awesome thread!

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## Chosen

Cool.

Is there anyone among us who has the level of mastery to have an assembled lower without out any hammer dings? 

I always manage to have at least one ding no matter how well I mask things off or protect things.

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## pcosmar

> Cool.
> 
> Is there anyone among us who has the level of mastery to have an assembled lower without out any hammer dings? 
> 
> I always manage to have at least one ding no matter how well I mask things off or protect things.


Those aren't "dings", They are Individualization Marks.

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## Chosen

> Those aren't "dings", They are Individualization Marks.


Hahaha yes, that's right. I will remember that.

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## Ethek

> Ghengis, thanks for the thread. 
> 
> I would like to recommend something for you before you get an upper receiver. If you are to stay with 5.56 make sure you get a barrel which has a 1:7 twist. The reason for this is that it will allow you to use bigger grained ammo like 77grain MK262 and variants. Otherwise if you obtain the very common 1:9 twist rate on your barrel you will be relegated to 55 grain and maybe 60grain. But I think you will like the lethality of the larger grain. The 1:9 twists rate makes the larger grain bullets inaccurate and unstable.
> 
> 16" barrel of course.
> 
> If you go with a 6.8spc upper, consider the 1:11 twist rate or definitely look for:
>  ...with your upper. This will allow you to shoot combat load 110 grain ammo. 
> 
> ...


Whats the trade off for having a 1:7 twist on a lighter bullet?

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## Chosen

> Whats the trade off for having a 1:7 twist on a lighter bullet?


You cannot go below 62 grain.

Well, you can use 55 grain you will just begin to lose accuracy further down range.

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## pcosmar

> Originally Posted by *devil21*  
> Everyone should be building these things!


I can not.
I can not even own or hold one, as I am infringed.

I can wish though.
My wishes tend to be in this direction.
http://www.lefthandrifles.com/ar/spr.html

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## devil21

nm del

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## ghengis86

> Any progress ghengis?  
> 
> My buttstock, PMags and charging handle are on the way!  Im down to figuring out the barrel assembly to complete the rifle.  Well, mainly how to get one since most places are months and months on backorder.  I was quoted up to 16 weeks for delivery!  Yikes.  One place is even going to start making their own barrels in the next month to meet demand.  Ive settled on 16" mid-length, 1:7 twist, regular handguard with railed gas block.  She will be scoped


sort of...i've got my bolt, charging handle, upper and barrel.  I'm waiting for a gas tube.  i decided to wait to post more pics until i can finish the upper assembly.  i do have another upper that i could snap on the lower and be 'done' but that would defeat the purpose.

i have an extra brand new DPMS 16" M4, 1:9 twist barrel if you're interested.

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## ghengis86

here's an update.  I did a dry fitting of the upper/barrel so you can get an idea.

i need a gas tube and can't find one anywhere, so if you have an idea where i can find one, let me know.  I have a d-ring and stock hand guards, but i'm thinking i want a quad rail for this one.

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## Chosen

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...&ps=10&si=True

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## ghengis86

> http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...&ps=10&si=True


thanks; i already checked them last week and placed an order.  they're out of stock and i'm on a waiting list.  they did have gas tube roll pins so I got a couple of those!  hahaha....

can't even find them on gunbroker.com.  maybe a gas piston system would be my next option, though I don't know how expensive they are or who has the best ones

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## Chosen

> thanks; i already checked them last week and placed an order.  they're out of stock and i'm on a waiting list.  they did have gas tube roll pins so I got a couple of those!  hahaha....
> 
> can't even find them on gunbroker.com.  maybe a gas piston system would be my next option, though I don't know how expensive they are or who has the best ones


Wow, usually Brownells is the "warehouse."

There is a good retrofit gas system by Adams Arms which I have used (not on my rifle), but it is $499!
http://www.defensereview.com/modules...ticle&sid=1174
http://www.adamsarms.net/order.html

Go quick, in stock it says:
http://dynamicarmament.com/items/ar-...ube-detail.htm

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## ghengis86

> Wow, usually Brownells is the "warehouse."
> 
> There is a good retrofit gas system by Adams Arms which I have used (not on my rifle), but it is $499!
> http://www.defensereview.com/modules...ticle&sid=1174
> http://www.adamsarms.net/order.html
> 
> Go quick, in stock it says:
> http://dynamicarmament.com/items/ar-...ube-detail.htm


Thanks!  I just placed an order with them for the gas tube.  hopefully in a couple days i'lll be bale to finish this thing up

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## devil21

nm del

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## pcosmar

> Wow, usually Brownells is the "warehouse."
> 
> There is a good retrofit gas system by Adams Arms which I have used (not on my rifle), but it is $499!
> http://www.defensereview.com/modules...ticle&sid=1174
> http://www.adamsarms.net/order.html
> 
> Go quick, in stock it says:
> http://dynamicarmament.com/items/ar-...ube-detail.htm


Thanks for that, I like the idea of the gas piston. 
I blew up a couple gas tubes in the service. Always saw that as a real weakness.

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## devil21

nm del

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## Athan

Ok guys. I got my refund from the great extortionist sam. 

I'm getting ready to do the same. The question is... should I go with an AR? Is there other model rifles I should consider constructing?

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## devil21

> Ok guys. I got my refund from the great extortionist sam. 
> 
> I'm getting ready to do the same. The question is... should I go with an AR? Is there other model rifles I should consider constructing?


If you plan on just buying the rifle outright, you could do a lot worse than an AR.

----------


## Chosen

> Quick update on my AR build for anyone interested.  My barrel arrived today.  I went with a 14.5" Sabre 1/7 mid-length.  An extended flash hider will be welded to make it the legal 16".  The rest of the barrel parts are on the way to me so I should have a completed rifle in the next week or so.


Can't wait to see pics.

You live in a no-sbr state I take it?

I think with that barrel length you'll be happy with the 1:7 twist rate. Are you going to free float the barrel?

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## devil21

nm

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## Chosen

> The flash hider will be pinned and welded to make it 16.1" so no SBR stamp from the ATF is needed.  That's federal law (NFA), not state law.  A friend of mine is storing my lower while I have the short barrel in the house, just to be safe.  In order to have a rifle with a barrel less than 16" (Short Barrel Rifle) one must pay the ATF fee and get the paperwork for it to be legal.  Im not messing with that $#@!, plus it would violate my earlier vow of a completely "Fed-free" build.  I went with a Yankee Hill Machine free float modular midlength handguard, low profile gas block and a Vortex flash hider.  Im cheating a little though.  Im sending the barrel and flashhider to a gunsmith for the pin and weld, plus the upper so they can install the barrel and handguard.  I don't have a vice, receiver block and barrel wrench so I can't install the barrel.  And Im not paying for tools Ill probably use only once.  I already have enough invested in this gun as it is.


Yeah, believe me I know about the SBR laws all too well. Here in Washington you cannot have an SBR at all, tax stamp or not.

I like the YHM free float handguards. I think its a good idea because sometimes with the shorter weapons that utilize vertical grips especially, the gas tube can get torqued. Never happened to me, but I have heard of this.

Flash hiders can be annoying to install if they require an exact end position, like a standard a2.

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## ghengis86

well, i finally got the rest of my parts today, save for a flash hider/brake; not set on what i want yet.  I'll probably just go with a standard A2; i think i'll go through the hassel to get a suppresor for this gun.  Anyway, you can see I have the upper, bolt, gas buster charging handle, d-ring, spring, snap ring, barrel, gas tube and quad rail (its just a cheap two piece, non-free float for now):


since i'm putting this together from scratch, i don't need to take off the front sight base.  simply put the d-ring on the barrel nut, followed by the spring and lastly, the c-clip/snap ring.  i didn't have a c-clip/snap ring spreader tool, so i just anchored the one end in the grove on the barrel nut and used a small flat head screw driver to pry each side over (keeping my thumb over it).  turned out fine:


I got this great amorer's wrench and vise block from brownell's:

----------


## ghengis86

insert the barrel into the upper; there's a locator pin to help line it up.


after that last pic, i took the upper out and inserted a nail through the gas tube port so i would be able to keep the spring and c-clip/snap ring in place while i tightened the barrel nut.  also, i put a little grease on the upper's threads.  i got it at advanced auto parts and it said wheel grease with moly (molybdenum disulfide).


i held the d-ring with one hand while i tightened the barrel nut with the other.  i just went slow and easy.  as i started to screw it on, i had to make sure the nail was recessd enough so it wouldn't catch on the way around.  take your time and its a breeze


make sure it's snugged up good and that the gas tube cut-out is lined up to allow the gas tube to pass through

----------


## ghengis86

i inserted the tube and lined up the roll pin in the hole.  make sure you have the gas port facing down.  this is kind of hard to do, since the bend would be down.  actually, i used pliers to slightly compress one end of the roll pin, held it in place with some needle nose pliers and tapped it in with a hammer.  I only have a framing hammer, so after i got it most of the way in, i use a t-allen wrench as a 'punch' and tapped it the rest of the way in so that it was flush with the sight base.  

after that, you're ready to rock and roll.  i slipped on the quad rail with ease and tightened it up with the supplied allen head screws.  took 2 minutes


and here's the final product!



i need a BUIS and a flash hider for it to be really functional.  it would shoot right now, but i doubt i would hit anything! i'll post a breakdown of the cost shortly.

i'm not a pro, so if i screwed something up or did it wrong, let me know.  if you have hints or tips, please share.  this was seriously easy.

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## ghengis86

cost breakdown.

lower receiver: $180
lower parts kit: $55
stock: $65
upper: $105
bolt and carrier group: $190
gas buster charging handle: $75
barrel: $175
gast tube: $15
d-ring: $8
quad rail: $85

so about $953 plus another $100 for flash hider and Back up iron sight.  not bad, but that's not really what i;m out of pocket.  when i bought my lower parts kit, i acutally bought 3 and sold two on gun broker for $110 and $90; so that paid for my lower parts kit.  Next, I ended up buying six barrels (a local shop had some in stock), and sold five on gunbroker for $300 each or $125 profit each (free barrel plus $625!).  so really, after the money i made on the gunbroker sales, the cost of this rifle was about $325!  add the flash hider and iron sight and this rifle cost less than $450!

can you find an AR-15 anywhere for under $500?  didn't think so.  i expect prices to rise on everything as Holder announced another AWB.

----------


## Cowlesy

sweet.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrvFUuNBY3M

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## devil21

> sweet.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrvFUuNBY3M


Cool vid.  Looks like a forum member is in it too 

Btw, nice job on the build ghengis.  Looks good.

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## ghengis86

i just realized i never added the final pics after i put on the muzzle brake and BUIS.  I went with a yankee hill phantom flash hider and Matech BUIS.

----------


## Gideon

Thread-worthy bump!

A great spring project (especially if you are like me and lose a couple springs each time you build a lower.

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## Uriel999

> sweet.
> 
> YouTube - Testing my Oly


How did I miss that video! Great video...now where is doctor jeep around to tease. 




> Thread-worthy bump!
> 
> A great spring project (especially if you are like me and lose a couple springs each time you build a lower.


Yeah, I've got an upper to buy once my tax return comes in!

----------


## Icymudpuppy

If I ever need an AR, I'll have no trouble getting one with burst fire capability.  By the time I run out of 30.06 ammo, there will be plenty of M-4's available with 7 mags of ammo each.

----------


## pcosmar

> If I ever need an AR, I'll have no trouble getting one with burst fire capability.  By the time I run out of 30.06 ammo, there will be plenty of M-4's available with 7 mags of ammo each.



Battlefield acquisition.
[OPSEC deleted}

----------


## osan

> The A1s have a 1:12 twist for the M193 ball. In any case I am an advocate of the 20" barrel for greater velocity and therefore, more "punch" at range. The Army's ballistic theory is based on that higher velocity to achieve lethality, the M4 carbine with the 16" barrel is for anticipated defensive engagements of less than 200m - not for hunting land pirates at range.


For range you want a bolt gun in any event.  Semis are generally not sufficiently consistent in their lockup for long range touch on human-sized targets.  If they were, sniper units would use them.

----------


## elmatrixracing

good worck meN

----------


## ihsv

Bump this awesomeness

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## pcosmar

> For range you want a bolt gun in any event.  Semis are generally not sufficiently consistent in their lockup for long range touch on human-sized targets.  If they were, sniper units would use them.


Not entirely true.
 FN FNAR
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubb...30#Post1787330

and these
http://www.suite101.com/content/new-...marines-a87093

I know, it's an AR 15 thread. ARs are good for firefights and carry. I just like the .308.

----------


## ghengis86

sunday morning bump to go along with this one by pericles:
http://www.ronpaulforums.com/showthr...uilding-a-1911

----------


## Pericles

> sunday morning bump to go along with this one by pericles:
> http://www.ronpaulforums.com/showthr...uilding-a-1911


Your thread inspired me to document the 1911 process. The saying is true - ARs are assembled, 1911s are built.

----------


## SWATH

I build in bulk and I've turned barrel pinning into a science. These are barrels I pinned today with WarBlocks.

----------


## SWATH

Why build just one?

----------


## SWATH

Nutn' too fancy:

----------


## SWATH

Of course sometimes there's the whole quality vs quantity argument:


And of course what is better than a badass upgraded upper? A sharp and pointy one:

----------


## ghengis86

> Bumps tend to get more views and this is an active topic.  I'll sticky it when ghengis finishes this awesome thread!


Why no sticky yet, Josh?  Josh...???

----------


## Natural Citizen

Okay, so you guys are probably on another list now.

----------


## phill4paul

Bump.

----------


## Pericles

You can't build just one

----------


## fedupinmo

Oh, I really need to get this one pinned and welded so I can finish it. I call it the MPoorA1, since nothing in it is Colt. It does have one of the CHF-CL Remington overrun "SOCOM" barrels though, and I have a PSA M4A1 clone receiver for it and a cage-coded stock.

----------

